How do you change motor mounts in a dodge caliber?

Answer 1

This write-up is a simple tutorial for installing motor mounts or motor mount inserts. The write-up covers explicitly a motor mount insert installation (I bought the MPx race inserts) but replacing the entire mount is a similar procedure. The entire installation took around 3 hours.

I had access to pretty much every tool possible (including a wobble attachment for the ratchet which was very helpful) - air tools included. This made the process much easier. A large ratchet or breaker bar is very helpful for breaking the bolts loose before using air tools.

Torque Settings (for side and trans):

Bolts to Chassis: 250 in-lbs

Bolts to engine: 50 ft-lbs

Bolt through Mount: 85 ft-lbs

Trans Mount

The trans mount takes a decent amount of time to do. I put the car on jack stands and supported then engine/trans just under the back of the transmission. The entire airbox must come off, the battery must come out, and the plastic holder for the battery has to come out. Its best if you at least loosen the bolt (mine was extremely tight) that goes through the actual mount before loosening the 3 bolts that hold the mount to the transmission - this makes loosen that bolt much easier as the bracket will flex if you remove the 3 bolts before loosening the one through the mount. After you get all the bolts out, remove the mount bracket and cheap rubbery pieces (very technical term) and simply insert the correct mounts and wiggle the bracket back into place. Modern uses clamps to hold the inserts in place, but for whatever reason I didn't need to - my inserts stayed in place and I was able to wiggle the bracket in no problem. Then just reverse everything.

Front Mount

The front mount is considerably easier. Loosen the bolt that goes through the mount (note that the nut that's on the passenger side of the mount is fixed, so it doesn't need supported as you loosen the bolt side). Then undo the 3 bolts that hold the beam in place. Then finish by removing the bolt through the mount and the whole beam will come out. The bolt is probably 4" long, so it will take a lot of time to get it out. Put the inserts in and reverse everything. I had trouble getting the bolt to line up correctly, but you'll just have to move the hole inside the mount around to get everything to line up.

Passenger Mount

Support the engine (I did this by placing a piece of board on my jack and then supporting the engine on the oil pan). I used a much smaller jack when installing the passenger mount, so jack just slid under the car - no need to use jack stands if you have a small (short) enough jack. Remove the 3 bolts (i used a 1/2" driver - it worked, though i'm sure that's not the exact size) that hold the Coolant reservoir, Power Steering reservoir, and the windshield fluid reservoir. Pull the coolant reservoir out of its position and maneuver it up to the intake manifold. You can only move the power steering one a little bit, but you can turn it horizontally towards the row of spark plugs (it also helps to have the intercooler pipe and plastic valve cover off). Loosen the bolt through the mount by turning the side of the bolt (17mm) on the front side of the car (the back side has a catch so there no need to place a wrench on the back). Then remove the 3 bolts that hold the mount to the engine (16mm). These are deep and will take some time without an air wrench. Then remove the 2 bolts (16mm) that are off to the side of the actual mount. There's one last shorter bolt that's directly below the windshield reservoir. You'll have to pull up the entire piece to pull it out of place, and then move it drivers side just enough to access the bolt. You don't need to move it too far though. Once you have those 6 bolts out, you can move the mount by carefully maneuvering it out of the bay (this will take some twisting and turning of the mount). Remove the bolt through the middle and put the correct inserts in. This mount was the tightest of the 3 when trying to get the bracket back on, had to use clamps for sure on this one. Try to position the engine bracket in approximately the same position as you took it out, as this will make it easier to line up the 3 bolts correctly and get the mount positioned correctly (Note: don't tighten the bolt through the mount completely, so that the bracket has some ability to hinge). I started the 3 engine bolts first, then started the bolt below the windshield reservoir, then the last two bolts on the sides of the mount. I tightened the two sides bolts first almost completely, then tightened down the back bolt, then the three on the engine completely. Lastly, tighten the bolt through the mount completely. Put all the reservoirs back in place and bolt them in. Then remove the engine support. Done!

Vibration is minimum at idle, but engine noise and vibration is noticeable under acceleration, particularly below 2000 rpms. If you don't give it quite enough gas during a start, it will vibration heavily like it is going to stall, even though it would normally be enough gas to start. When cruising there is hardly any vibration (particularly on the freeway). Shifts are a little firmer, but the car is much smoother under heavy acceleration and doesn't seem to jump as much.