How do you change rear shocks on a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan?

Answer 1

I replaced them on my 1999 Grand Caravan. It's very easy if you've got a good socket set with either an impact wrench or a socket wrench set with a breaker bar. (A breaker bar is a long extension you can put on the wrench end to give you extra leverage.) By the way, if you have a four wheel drive - you may have a completely different situation. However, if it's a front wheel drive it should be reasonably easy to do. Note: This procedure may require you to be under the car. There is risk of injury or death if you fail to secure the car and protect against it's falling. If you are not experienced working on cars you should get the help and advice of a professional. Most car parts stores carry the shocks "in stock." If you are a car keeper (I am - I still ALSO have an '87 caravan) you can get the lifetime shocks - if they ever fail you can replace them for free. I've used CAP (Consumer Auto Parts) and they've never argued about replacing lifetime parts when I produced the receipt. 1. Park the car someplace level where you can work, put the transmission in "park," remove the key and set the emergency brake 2. Block the wheels to prevent any chance of rolling 3. Jack up one side on the back of the car (If you get both sides off the ground the emergency brake is useless - it does the rear wheels only) 4. Secure it very well - I generally "wedge" it up by placing concrete blocks and wood shims that will "hold" it if the jack releases 5. In my case I didn't have to remove the wheel but you'll have to evaluate your own situation. 6. Position yourself to work on the problem - but make sure you've taken every precaution to ensure there's no way for the vehicle to fall on you. Remember, your medical bills and/or funeral will cost more than a professional mechanic... You will see there are two bolts, an upper and a lower, which secure the shock abosrber in place. The hardest part is "breaking" them free - they're in VERY, VERY tight. If you have an impact wrench that's ideal. If not, get a 1/2" socket that fits the nut perfectly - Craftsman tools are lifetime guaranteed so that's what I use. Put the wrench in "loosen" position, set it on one of the nuts, put the breaker bar (you can use a long steel pipe that fits over the ratchet handle). Now the fun starts. You're going to have to REALLY PULL on that wrench to get it to loosen so be absolutely sure the ratchet is set to loosen (NOT tighten). When it DOES loosen, it will give a mighty groan. It will continue to groan for about the first full turn, then it will quiet down - then you can remove the breaker bar and finish with the regular handle. REMEMBER, if you turn it the wrong way, or if the bolt is totally seized, there's a chance you'll break the bolt. If this happens you will have a MAJOR expense on your hands, so be careful. You'll have to do this for both bolts - upper and lower. Remember where any washers are. The new shock needs to be extended or compressed to the same size and must be oriented the same way. Adjust it so it fits properly and be sure you thread the bolts in properly, fit the washers (if any) as they came off (note the new shocks may have new washers - check and replace with the new ones if so). Careful putting the bolts back - if you thread them wrong, you'll strip the threads and have a MAJOR expense. When it's completely back you should torque the bolts to the proper tension. The Auto Parts store might be able to tell you what this is. If you don't have a torque wrench then tighten as hard as you can with the regular extension. Grab the shock and wiggle it to be sure there is no play. If there's no play then you're very tight - but I always go about one-eigth to one-quarter of a turn more with the breaker bar. Remember there is risk of breakage so don't overtighten.