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By a large, flat plastic tub at Walmart for . Check the trans pan to see if it has a drain plug. If so place the tub under the tranny, pull the dipstick, unplug the drain plug and let it drain (give it a few hours to make sure the torque converter also dumps.

If there is no drain plug, get a ratchet with a 12mm and 10 mm socket and an open end 10 mm. You be able to unbolt the 12 mm pan bolts, but you'll need the 10 mm near the cable bracket. Under the bracket, there is another 10 mm accesible via open end. Leave two bolts in front of the pan tight and take the rest out. That way the pan will fall and drain to the rear when you finally take out the front bolts.

While you have the pan off, change the filter and gasket. They make a cork and a rubber gasket. The rubber one is better and will last longer without cracking. Check to see if you have a shallow pan or a deep pan. This will determine the type of filter you buy (the gaskets in each kit will be the same, though). The filter pulls down out of a rubber and metal collar. Turn it slightly from side to side while pulling down, then reach up and pull out the collar.

When replacing the pan (after you install a new filter) tighten the bolts in a corss hatch pattern. That is back and forth corner to corner. You don't want to crimp the gasket. Do not overtighten the bolts! I think the spec is 80ft/lbs., but check it.

Check the owner's manual for type of fluid (Usually Dexron II or Dexton III) and the capacity. Do not overfill the transmission and check it on a level service at operating temps while the truck is idling. T be sure it goes through its internal lubrication cycle, put the tranny in each gear for 3 seconds before checking it (make sure the parking break is on and only idle the engine so you don;t accidentally break into the garage).

That's it.

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Q: How do you change the transmission fluid on a 2001 Chevy S10 4 cylinder?
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