JOHN DEERe does not advise changing trans fluid on the lx176 for two (2) reasons.
(1) The possibility of contaminants getting in the resevoir.
(2) The system has to be burped(bleeded) like you would car brakes. If you are unfimiliar
with this process, you could be left with an immovable tractor or a substantial cost
from a dealer to correct the problem.
You are better off just topping off with wd10x30 motor oil.
Use any Automatic transmission fluid type F, or use John Deere low viscosity hydraulic fluid
Low Viscosity Hy-Gard is what John Deere recommends and sells for this application. It is a all weatherhydro-staticfluid that meets the JDM J21A requirements.
1995
the green mower store .com go to parts search
battery may need charged
well first you need to find it then figure out your problome or even find out if it has one ask your john deere dealer or parts they tell u where to find it then u can do what you need to do .........(hope this helps).
It means you have low oil pressure. Can be low of oil, or the oil pump has failed. do not run this engine until you find the problem.
Oil recommended by John Deere is Turf-Gard, Torq-Gard Supreme, Torq-Gard Supreme Plus 50, Plus 4 (1.69 quarts) all sold by John Deere. weight of oil depends on your temperature range of operation. generally SAE 10w-30 will work just fine. the Hydraulic Oil to use is SAE 10W-30. if you do not have a John Deere store close to buy the Oil = generally any good name brand gasoline engine oil will work.
It depends on the shape of the equipment. I bought an LX176 ig great shape from my neighbor last Oct. for $700. Was it worth that? It was to me, I love it.
1. release the tension rod on the left side of the deck and swing it outward 2.on front left axle pull lever out that keeps tension on the u shaped draft bar that hooks into the front of deck and swing it down towards you 3. pull out spring loaded j hooks on each side of rear deck 4. once hooks are released deck will come down,then slide deck out of the discharge side of mower,turning whells to make it easier
Dick, Just had the same problem. I replace the coil but it wasnt until I replaced the small silver square thing that they called the "module". It has 1 input into it with two white wires that run in under fly wheel. That fixed problem about $80 AUS and mower started but now seems to be out of time and wont fire. Hope this helps Ben
One of my clients tractors the same model has been doing the same thing. We discovered it is the PTO engagement switch. His will get to where it will cut the PTO off and not engage at all. When it does this, he will push the switch and pull it out repeatedly very quickly and it will engage again. If yours does the same thing, the switch is likely bad. There are aftermarket switches available for around 16 bucks. Just Google part number AM118802. Only difference is the little knob will be red instead of yellow. The part at the John Deere dealer is over 30 bucks. Also, BEFORE you spend any money, check the main ground wire at the left rear side of the tractor. Simply follow the negative battery wire to where it connects to the engine mounting bolt. Make SURE this area is clean and the bolt and nut securing the ground is tight. If it's loose, or the connection is dirty, this could be your problem as well. It is not likely the PTO clutch itself, as it is an electromagnet and will either work or not work. There is usually NO in between for those. Hope that helps.