To test and replace a heating element: # Turn off power at the Electrical Service Panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. # Remove the access panel on the electric water heater. # Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity (open circuit), replace the element. # If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all (closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner. # To remove the element, first drain the heater. # Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element. # Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Try checking the heating element itself. Do this by removing it and using an ohm meter to check it for an "open" circuit condition. If the ohm meter reads infinite, then it is likely bad. If the water heater is only slow to heat, a very likely possibility is that you have an excess amount of sediment in the bottom of the tank, insulating the heating element from the water. Back flushing the tank will solve this problem. For more tips, check out the following web site: www.waterheaterrescue.com
You must have a pressure relief valve. I believe it is code nationally. I don't think you can buy a hot water tank w/o one. Expansion tank needed also if water meter has backflow preventer, check with local water authority if it does.
Possibly ruptured heater core. if you are losing coolant-check it out.
If your having condensation at the bottom of the unit it could be that the bottom element has gone bad and when the cold water comes in and hits the warm tank it is condensating. Also if heating element has gone bad that could be a definite cause for the breaker to keep tripping.
THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A HOT WATER HEATER.
First see if it will get hotter by adjusting the knob on the regulator or lower heater element. If that doesn't work check lower element operation with a meter.
Try checking the heating element itself. Do this by removing it and using an ohm meter to check it for an "open" circuit condition. If the ohm meter reads infinite, then it is likely bad. If the water heater is only slow to heat, a very likely possibility is that you have an excess amount of sediment in the bottom of the tank, insulating the heating element from the water. Back flushing the tank will solve this problem. For more tips, check out the following web site: www.waterheaterrescue.com
If the water from the faucet is tepid or cold, it might be time to check the electric hot water heater element. Electric hot water heaters are equipped with two heater elements that heat water. They do so through an electrical current the goes through the element. The lower element does the hard work and is most likely to be the first that burns out. Turn off the electricity, and disconnect the wires at the heating element terminals. Set the multimeter to read resistance. Touch the clips on each terminal of the element. If the Ohmmeter doesn't budge, the element is shot.
Wouldn't recommend.
I just put an upper heating element in my Hotpoint 40 gal. hot water heater. In putting a meter on the element, I found that I had 200+ volts. When I put the meter on the lower element it didn't budge. Might I have a defective lower thermostat? What might be preventing the voltage to reach the lowere heating element? Thank you for your anticipated input
ring a plumber up
Not really.
No way to fix that - your tank is scrap.
Check your water. If your water level is low then the heater may not work.
No
if an element is constantly expanding and contracting (if you keep switching the hot water heater off and on again) all the time it causes cracks and over time the water leaks into the element causing it to short which means you have to replace it.
In a gas water heater: The gas flame warms the water, exactly the same way as a gas stove burner does for a pan of water on the stove. In an electric water heater, an element - same as an electric range element, but a different shape - heats up from electrical current, and transfers that heat to the water.