I would try shocking the pool.I have run into this problem. a lot of times the pool becomes basically "chemically locked", and although the chlorine level will measure Okay, the free chlorine level is very low.
ANSW:: More chlor and longer filter run time. Use a better grade of chlor.
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Purple on the fixtures and fittings and plaster = very high chlorine stabilizer or conditioner levels. It can also be caused by metals and/or minerals in the water, particularly manganese. The manganese reacts to the high level of chlorine (when you shock your pool for example) and turns the water purple. You can use a mineral remover product to clear this up - perhaps Stain Away or something similar to that.
Yes, but you should shock it so the water stays clear (do not go in after shocking until the chlorine is at a safe level 1-3ppm)
take half the water out,them put in clear clean water,our let the sun kill the chlorine.
If the water is staying clear there is no reason to shock it.
Add chlorine
It really depends on the initial balance of the fill water and the surface of the pool and the type of sanitizer system being used. Depending on the fill water you might have to initially adjust pH, Total Alkalinity and (for plaster and fiberglass pools) add calcium if it is low--calcium is a non issue for vinyl pools). If there are metals in the water (from well water or local conditions) then a metal sequestrant will be needed initially and as a regular maintenance chemical. Also, many new plaster startups require the use of a metal sequestrant for the first year to maintain the warranty and some startup procedures for plaster might require larger amounts of some pool chemicals for the first weeks to months (such as acid startup for exposed aggregate pools and bicarbonate startup for plaster pools.) If chlorine or a salt water system is being used then CYA (stabilizer ) will be needed, as will a chlorine source. (Salt pools need to have their chlorine level brought up to the proper level before the salt system is turned on by the addition of a chlorine source such as liquid chlorine or bleach.) If it is a salt pool then salt will be needed once the plaster has started curing (Salt can be added immediately in fiberglass and vinyl pools). If the pool is a bromine pool or a biguanide/peroxide pool then the appropriate sanitizers/oxidizers will be needed. Your first step would be to test the fill water and adjust pH, TA, and CH if needed, add any other needed chemicals (such as metal sequestrants) then add the appropriate amount of CYA if it is a chlorine pool (and the appropriate amount of salt if it is a salt pool and the plaster has cured for a month or immediately for vinyl and fiberglass) , and then add the appropriate sanitizer/oxidizer (chlorine, bromine, or biguanide/peroxide). If the builder has specific instructions for pool startup and plaster curing then be sure to follow them! The chemical requirements for a plaster pool are going to be different for the first year as the plaster cures. Typically, the amount of acid needed is much higher as the plaster is curing.
clear
measure the pH level
The level of total dissolved solids in water does affect chlorine disinfection. That's why there is a recommended specification for the level of total dissolved solids in water for the water that is sent to homes.
Yes it does just like a chlorine pool.
Generally,for this purpose chlorine is used.
You add water to the pool