First, remove the shower head and test the valve. If you have plenty of water at the shower with the head removed, then the problem is a clogged shower head. Clean it or replace it.
What the hell...just replace it. You deserve it. Go buy one of those cool shower massage heads to replace it.
If you discover you have poor flow at the head with the shower head removed, then you have a blockage in your valve.
So you buy a 1/2 (female pipe thread) x Hose Thread adapter. Put that on the arm for your shower head. Turn off the water to the house. Borrow a neighbors hose and run it through a window and connect it to the shower head (hose thread adapter). Now take the hose off your washer box and drop the hose into the drain hole. Now turn on the water.
The water from your neighbor will allow you to backflush that valve. The debris will backflush and wash out through your laundry hose on down the drain.
If that doesn't work, then yes, you probably need to replace the entire valve.
(I'm assuming your already taken the cartridge apart and cleaned it)
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Is your tub spout still running alot of water through it when you use the shower? If so replace spout, if three valve, replace center diverter. If that is all ok, Then yes take off shower head and see if you have the pressure, if so install new shower head and or clean. If not head, then screw on .5 x hose adpt. to the shower arm, you will have to have one washer hose to connect to your outside faucet then to your garden hose which will connect to the shower arm. Leave faucet hot and cold water off, turn on outside faucet all the way, this will let the water go through the valve and out the spout. If this does not work replace faucet.
All water pressure in a house is the same. You may be talking about volume. If your H/W tank hasn't been cleaned out for years, it may not be working well. Start by cleaning it - If there is an anode rod ( a one inch bolt head on the top of heater) change it now. Available at most Plumbing stores, around $20. Next, turn OFF the power to tank, then attach a hose pipe to the bottom fitting, lead it outside or to any drain, turn on the valve by it, turn OFF your inlet valve and open the relief valve so air can enter the H/W tank.Let the whole tank empty -takes about 30 -40 minutes. Next, when empty turn ON the inlet valve and let cold water run through the tank and out the hose, now you will see the sludge coming out. Let this run 5-7 minutes or until water is coming through clean. Now you are done . Let it fill, then turn on power.
A. you can dismantle the control and replace the inside parts cheaply.
B. you can remove the restrictor from the actual showerhead.
Turn the tap around slightly.
Clean or change the diverter faucet
Aerator in shower head is plugged up. Unscrew head, clean it out, and replace. Make sure you have teflon tape on hand for the treads on the shower arm when putting the head back on.
May be build up in the valve itself or the shower head.
Your water pressure is low. Consequently, when cold water is diverted to another application such as a toilet or a sink, the amount of cold water available at the shower mixing valve decreases as the low pressure is unable to keep up with the shower's demand. This causes a hotter mixture at the shower head. The solution is to either improve the cold water supply to the shower or to replace the shower control valve with a temperature compensating type. Pressure balancing is the cheapest and simply changes the shower temperature according to the pressure in the cold and hot water lines. When the toilet or sink is used, reduced pressure to the shower valve is detected and the valve reduces the hot water pressure, thereby maintaining the temperature. The more sophisticated approach is a thermostatic shower control valve. These are significantly more expensive, but will not reduce the pressure at the shower head (a drawback of the pressure balancing valve). The thermostatic valve would be required when one shower control valve is operating several shower heads. Moen, Kohler and Delta all make both types of control valves. They can be readily obtained from a local plumbing supply house.
Open up the actual shower head and remove the factory fitted restrictor.
Yes, you can install a tee in the riser. The pressure loss will be minimal since both shower heads will have a flow restrictor unless you remove them. If you remove them, you probably wont notice any difference. If you do notice a difference, put the flow restrictor back in the closest shower head to the shower valve.
The force of the spray from a shower head has more to do with the water pressure delivered by your plumbing. Some shower heads do have a valve that allows pressure to build in the shower head, thus delivering a more powerful spray, but sufficient water pressure would be necessary from the source. Visit the home improvement store and talk about the various options with a knowledgeable salesperson.
you have trash in your line take the shower head off and remove trash or possibly in water valve at shower
If it is a gravity fed shower raise the tank or use a shower pump in the loft. If its off a combi boiler you cant without butting a bigger out put boiler in. If its a electric shower put a higher kw shower in (may need lager wire installing). or simple descale you're shower head.
Seats in the main valve body are leaking by, allowing water to go to the shower head.
The valve in the shower control needs to be renewed.
By measuring each hole in the shower head and getting the pressure and then mathematically it can be figured out
There is a screen and/or a water saver in the shower head. The screen may be plugged with sediment from in the water.