Best and cheapest way is to go to a salvage yard and buy and install a "good" used one and run the vehicle for 5-10 minutes to see if your problems have gone away.
The alternate solution is to go to a mechanic an pay $100-150 for them to hook up your ecu through the diagnostic connector and run tests to check
all the functions of the ecu.
Depending on your problem, it could cost considerably more for a thorough
diagnosis-depending on what type mechanic you visit.
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Pull the ECU out and remove the cover and physically look to see if i can see a burn mark on the board. Use a magnifying glass. Occasionally i will find a very obvious burned board. Not common but it does happen.
All of them?Fuse or faulty PCM/ECU.
It is a faulty sticking injector, or LAMBDA Sensor, Or faulty ECU
AnswerYou need to pull the codes and see what they say. you'll need a troubleshooting flowchart to do the testing. There are times that the flowcharts will say to replace the ECU, but that is not always the right solution.Pulling the codes will not always be a solution, however. If the ECU is faulty, or if the ECU has a faulty power supply (e.g. ignition relay to ECU is bad), you may not be able to communicate with the ECU at all.Each vehicle's repair manual should have a flow chart of ECU diagnostics, outlining what connections/terminals to test for voltage and resistance. Essentially, if you have positively verified that all other electrical components are working properly, and you still have signal problems, then you can assume the ECU is bad.
Faulty reasoning might accidentally lead to the right answer. Different parts in the faulty reasoning may cancel each other out. If faulty reasoning consistently gives the correct answer, then it is opinion and not fact that the reasoning was faulty in the first place. Research is the best method to determine opinion from facts.
It controls nothing. It sends a signal to the ECU based on the Ait Intake Temperture. The ECU uses this to determine the best fuel/air mixture.
Because you haven't diagnosed and repaired it, obviously. You could have a faulty fuse, a faulty relay, a faulty switch, a faulty wiper motor, a wiring fault, etc. You're going to need to do some troubleshooting to determine what the issue is.
Time domain reflectometer
A number of things, the ecu could be faulty, a short in the wiring behind the dash, a faulty circuit board for the gauges. check all your fuses. pull the gauge cluster out and check voltage going to it with a meter. if you have no voltage going to any of those wires then follow the harness and eventually you will find a short or a bad ecu.
If the test switch is faulty then there is no convenient way to determine if the GFCI is functioning, and technically, if the test switch is faulty, then as it is a part of the GFCI, the GFCI is faulty and should be replaced.
bad or misreading MAP or MAF sensors, bad ECT sensor, bad TPS sensor, stuck open fuel injector, or problem with fuel system, faulty parameters set in ECU or bad ECU.
bad or misreading MAP or MAF sensors, bad ECT sensor, bad TPS sensor, stuck open fuel injector, or problem with fuel system, faulty parameters set in ECU or bad ECU.
Most likely to be a faulty coolant temprature sensor It will be sending the wrong data to the ECU making the ECU think that the engine is cold And increasing the mixture strength Possibly causing the engine to flood