First you have to do the hard part. Find the short, then fix it. The first thing to do is visual inspection of any burnt wires along the wire harness in the system and check fuses. The easiest way to find a short is to use, or borrow a short finder, but they are moderately expensive, around 50 to 60 $. To use, take out the fuse with battery cables still on, and plug in the pulse unit into the fuse holder. use the meter part and starting at fuse panel move it along the system to the blower motor (start to finish). when a short is detected the needle will stop moving. Check that area for shorted wire or component. This ill work on any systems where a short is suspected. The pulse goes throw sheet metal and body trim. Note: All switches in circuit to be tested must be on.
Either replace the burnt wire or run new to the blower motor with a toggle switch.
First check the fuse to see if it is blown. If the fuse is good, then it is either the blower motor switch, blower motor Resistor Pack, or the Blower Motor itself. It can also be bad wiring. Apply 12 volts directly to the blower motor to see if it is good. If it is good and the wiring it OK, then it is the switch or resistor pack. I would bet on the Resistor Pack being the culprit. The switch rarely goes bad..
If you have both power and ground going to the blower then do the following......... Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable, then wait 2 minutes before proceeding with the removal. This will effectively disable the air bag system preventing possible personal injury. Remove the glove box from the instrument panel. Remove the A/C-heater blower motor cover. Disconnect the blower motor wiring connector. Remove the blower motor wiring grommet and feed the wiring through the blower motor housing. Remove the blower motor mounting screws. Allow the blower motor assembly to drop downward to clear the instrument panel and remove from vehicle.
Start by checking the fuse. If the fuse is good, apply 12 volts directly to the blower motor. If the motor runs it is good. Check all the wiring for loose or burnt wires. If all this checks out, then the Blower Motor Resistor Pack may be defective, or the blower motor speed switch itself.Start by checking the fuse. If the fuse is good, apply 12 volts directly to the blower motor. If the motor runs it is good. Check all the wiring for loose or burnt wires. If all this checks out, then the Blower Motor Resistor Pack may be defective, or the blower motor speed switch itself.
You either have a blown fuse, defective blower motor, defective blower motor switch, or a defective blower motor resistor pack.
You can check the blower motor by unplugging the wire harness and connecting a jumper wire directly from the battery positive terminal to the blower motor. Be very careful to avoid touching the jumper wire to ground to avoid arcing. If the blower motor runs then there may be a blown fuse, bad resistor pack, wiring issues or bad switch.
The blower motor resistor is the common failure. It comes with the wires attached that plug directly to the blower motor itself. If there is another wiriing harness that is damaged then you will have to buy it too. The resistor failure has been linked as the only cause of the melted wires other than the blower motor itself. The motor can be tested with 12v power to it and it should run on high speed when tested.
The blower motor speed resistor is burned out.
Replace the blower motor speed resister.
Replace the blower motor resistor.
If you are saying the blower motor will not work, then check the fuse. If the fuse is not blown, then it is possibly a defective Blower Motor Resistor Pack, blower motor, or blower motor speed control switch, in that order.If you are saying the blower motor will not work, then check the fuse. If the fuse is not blown, then it is possibly a defective Blower Motor Resistor Pack, blower motor, or blower motor speed control switch, in that order.
usually on or near the top of the blower motor behind glove box area