You need to do a complete cooling system service. First clean the outside fins on the readitor to remove any bugs or debris. Now drain all coolant from the system. next you need to flush the system. Be very careful when using a garden hose to flush your cooling system. A typical home outdoor faucet will produce between 40 and 50 psi of water pressure. Modern cooling systems are designed to operate at 22 psi or less (usually indicated on the top of your radiator cap). That said, you do NOT want to turn the faucet on full blast. A steady, constant stream of water will do a satisfactory cleaning job in a short period of time, without the need to over pressurize the system. Doing so may damage otherwise fine gaskets. In any case, splice a flushing kit into the heater hose that runs from the fire wall to the top of the engine. The flushing kit is simply a plastic "T" fitting that allows you to connect a garden hose. The kit is relatively inexpensive and should come with the fitting, a cap, and the clamps necessary to permanently install the kit. Remove the radiator cap and turn the faucet on. Continue flushing until the water that pours from the radiator is clean. When you are finished, disconnect the garden hose and install the cap. Drain the radiator once again. Do not run the vehicle while flushing the system. Even though this would likely do a better job, the cold tap water running from your home may cause aluminum engine components to warp as the engine heats up. Replace the thermostat as yours is problably stuck open. You'll find the thermostat located where the upper radiator hose meets the engine; the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat housing and install the new thermostat and gasket with the spring towards the engine. Reinstall the housing. The general rule of thumb for mixing antifreeze with water is 50/50. This applies to most climates and virtually every type of concentrated antifreeze. In very cold climates, a higher ratio may be desired. Using any water suitable for drinking is acceptable; however, distilled water is a better choice. Distilled water does not contain any minerals, which can leave deposits in the cooling system. Lastly, antifreeze and water do not need to be mixed in separate containers before adding to the system, nor should they. Since you've used water to flush the cooling system, there will be a considerable amount of water remaining when you begin. This means you will need to add a higher proportion of antifreeze to reach the desired coolant mixture. There is no effective scientific method of doing this, except to check the mixture with an antifreeze tester after it has been given time to blend, and adjust accordingly. Fill the radiator and reservoir and start the engine. As the engine runs, coolant will begin to circulate and the level will fluctuate. Continue adding coolant to keep the radiator near full until the engine reaches operating temperature. Rather than fill it right to the top, leave a little space in the filler neck. Air, trapped inside the system, will work its way out and can splash the now-hot coolant out. Turn the car's interior heater on. Shortly after the engine reaches operating temperature, the thermostat will open. When this happens, you'll notice a sudden drop in the level of coolant in the radiator as the system takes new coolant in. This may happen a number of times, until the system is completely full and free of air pockets. It is sometimes difficult to remove all the air trapped in a system; it simply takes time. One way is to open bleeder valves if equipped and also to jack the front of the car up, thus getting the filler hole as high as possible. Most antifreeze falls in two categories: Regular and Long-Life. Your vehicle owner's manual will specify a particular type of coolant. Regular antifreeze is green in color, while long-life antifreeze is orange or pink. Long-life antifreeze must be used in vehicles that are designed for it. In addition, check all hoses while servicing the system. Replace any suspect hose at this time. A cracked or very soft hose need replacing.
Naming the 3.8 engine and giving year of 'beretta' would certainly help.
Yes it will, but you have to put all the blazer engine stuff onto the beretta engine...
i have a 1994 Chevy beretta and they are under the engine
depends on which engines you are switching around as to how much you have to change over. Any engine from any beretta should bolt into any other beretta, tempest or corssica. However, you might have problems with computer, wiring harness, gauges, etc. You should also keep engine and tranny from doner car together.
The temperature sending unit for a 1995 Chevy Beretta is on the front of the engine. It is between the front of the engine and the radiator inlet/outlet.
A 1994 Chevrolet Beretta with the 2.2 or the 3.1 engine takes a 105 amp alternator.
The Chevy Beretta biggest engine ever produced would be there 3.4 liter v6 which was actually faster then the camaro in the same year of production.
If your serious about the engine removal get your self a haynes manual for your particular year
depends on engine, mounting, body, ecm, and about a million other things, but possibily
On the front left of the engine.
Underneath the engine block.
On the engine block, near the thermostat housing.