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Correct tool to use Brake Caliper Piston Rewind Tool A lot of pistons easily go back in using a lever or pair of large oil filter pliers just take care not to damage piston seals and not to damage the caliper surface.
Make sure the cap is off of the brake master cylinder. You can use a tool designed to move the caliper or a c-clamp. If the piston is too far out it may not go back into the caliper.
I believe you need a speaical tool that most parts stores sell, it fits into the piston and you can turn it with a ratchet and extension as the calipers acually turn to go in and out like a screw.
If it has come out completely, lubricate the disc brake piston and the piston bore (in the caliper) with clean brake fluid. Make sure the dust boot is clean and is seated in the caliper. Using a turning motion (back & forth), roll the lip of the dust boot over the piston and push the piston into the caliper by hand as far as you can go. You'll need a c-clamp and a block of wood (or an old brake pad) so that you can push the piston all the way into the bore. Go slowly as you are pushing and keep an eye on the piston so that it goes in straight with no resistance. You don't want to damage the sides of the piston. If the piston goes to the bottom with no problem, seat the dust boot lip into the piston groove. You'll have to bleed the brakes once the pads are in and the caliper is reinstalled.
The rear piston has to be turned in, it won't just push in, they make a tool at the parts store that makes it easier, if you have tried turning it in and it won't go you will have to replace the caliper as it's bad.
it needs to be taken apart and cleaned if possible if not you have to replace the entire caliper it is most likely seized in rust
Rear calipers are threaded and have to be "screwed" (because parking brake uses rear calipers) Tool available at Sears or auto parts--not expensive Get a 4 inch C clamp, put the old brake shoe back in place on the piston side and screw down the C clamp. This should do it. If not open the bleeder on this caliper & it will then go in. Be sure to Bleed The Brakes on the rear after this. cartalk says: Nix on the C clamp, as the Piston needs to be turned to go back in(self-adjuster) clamping will destroy parts... good luck dave Answer (12/19/08) Dave is right on... I just changed my rear brake pads on my '04 Grand Prix. The caliper piston face has a pattern on it that lines up with a "pin" on the back side brake pad. I bought a tool for $15 from O'Reilly AutoParts that is a "universal" tool that has he "pin" pattern to fit several car makes & models. The piston turned back into the caliper VERY easily. Just be sure to line up the piston face like it was when you first started so it will line up with the back side brake pad "pin". Mike
Answer: Brake calipers (front or rear) normally "go bad" because the dust seal was not replaced, thus allow dirt to get onto the piston as the brake linings wear down. When you go replace the linings and DON"T clean the piston, it allows the dirt to damage the caliper bore. NORMALLY, brake calipers leak and can be overhauled with a few sealing rings, and a good bleeding of the brake system.
Front caliper pistons can be compressed by hand using a clamp on the old brake pad, etc. Rear caliper pistons on this model Mustang need to be "twisted" back into place using a special tool. Go to your local parts tool and ask for brake caliper reset tool and they should know what you mean. The idea here is that you use the special tool to turn the piston while applying force to push it back.
The front brake caliper should retract with minimal effort with the aid of a c-clamp and an old brake pad. If it takes alot of pressure to make it retract I would replace the caliper. The rear brake caliper is a different story because it houses the e-brake also. The brake caliper piston must be rotated clockwise as you apply pressure to retract it. This requires a special tool that you can purchase from your local auto parts store. This tool is not expensive, it should be less than $20.
on the caliper take out the bottom bolt, there are two bolts that the caliper slides on and only undo the bottom one. Then the caliper will swing up and allow access to the disc pads . You need to get a G-clamp and push the piston in the caliper back( or else it wont fit back down). put it back together and pump the brakes to set the brake piston b4 you drive or the first time you go to brake you wont have any.
We ran into that problem on our 96 Buick, seems that there is a special tool that turns the brake piston counter clock wise to decompress it. Most of the parts stores have them. If you use a C Clamp to try to force it to decompress then expect to replace the caliper. This has to do with the fact that the parking brake is on the rear. Good Luck maybe this helpsBUY THE TOOL..........ROTATE THE REAR CALIPER PISTON.........A C-CLAMP WILL DAMAGE THE CALIPER. BAD, BAD, BAD. SHOULD BUY A SHOP MANUAL.The answer provided is fine if it applied to the front brakes. The rears on a mustang of this vintage have a caliper piston that needs to be turned clockwise. There is a special tool for this, some have had sucess using a beefy set of needlenose to turn the piston. The tool is only about 10 bucks.Good Luck.AdviceThe beefy needlenose trick has always done it for me, but remember if the piston still wont go in, don't be surprised. Those calipers do seem to seize a fair amount of the time. I've replaced several sets.