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The white (common lead) goes on the round or "L" connector. The red and black go to the two straight pins. <><><> Your "new" range can also be wired for 4 prong cord. remove the electric cord cover and unscrew the 3-prong cord. Install the 4-prong by removing the copper grounding strap from the center terminal, if installed. Both the hot leads, red and black, go to the outside terminals. Then the ground wire goes to the green ground screw and the neutral white wire goes to the center terminal. <><><> You have to change the receptacle to accept a 4 prong then you have to have new cable type 6-3 with ground because your new range has to have separate neutral and ground wires. <><><> The difference between the 3 and 4 prong 240V outlets is the addition of a ground wire. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, TURN OFF THE POWER!!! Definitely use the 4 prong if you can. The new plug will have the following connections: Black or Red wire, connected to the two brass colored screws = Hot. There are two of them and if you were to plug it in and test the voltage on the plug between the two brass colored screws you would detect 240 (+/= a few) volts. White wire, connected to the silver colored screws = neutral. Technically, the neutral wire is the center-tap of the transformer that is outside your house. If you can't see it, i may be underground or it may be on a power pole somewhere nearby. Probably not more than a few hundred feet from your home. Green wire: connect to a green screw or another brass screw that is usually off to the side or somehow marked as "ground". The ground wire (according to the national electrical code) is SUPPOSED to be connected to a rod that is driven about 5 ft into the ground somewhere near your electric meter base in back of your home, but older homes often don't have one. <><><> To connect the newer 4 prong plug: BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, TURN OFF THE POWER!!! 1. Make sure you have a good ground wire connected to a grounding rod at your home. If not, have someone run one for you and rewire your breaker panel to make use of the ground wire. DO NOT connect to the water pipes. That is an old practice that was used for many years but electrolysis causes water pipes to rust and break down. 2. Make sure you have a ground wire from your breaker panel to the range outlet box. 3. Connect the new 4 prong receptacle to the wire as indicated above. Green to ground, white to neutral (silver screw) and black or red to the brass colored screws. Then attach the receptacle to the electrical box and make sure you have an approved cover. 4. Get a range pigtail if possible so that you don't need to mess with wiring the plug. If you can't get a range pigtail, wire the range wire to the plug as described in step 3. 5. Connect the green wire of the pigtail to the range grounding screw (green). Connect the white wire to the neutral screw inside the range. Connect the two colored (black and/or red) wires to the "HOT" connections inside the range. If you feel AT ALL uncomfortable with any of these steps, get a professional. <><><> You should see a terminal block with 3 terminals. The middle terminal should be bonded to the chassis - Break that bond. Wire the terminal block Black - White - Red off your cable. Order from left to right doesn't matter, but white must be at the middle. Ground the chassis by connecting the green wire to the metal frame at a convenient point. Remember to scrape away any paint for a good metal-metal connection. <><><> As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

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== == === === You should ensure that the oven will be grounded and, if you are not certain how to check this and, if necessary, install the extra wiring, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to do this job for you.

That existing house cable with two blacks (which may be the "hots) and one grey (which may be the "neutral", but that has to be checked-out) needs to be upgraded to include a Green or Bare Ground wire to comply with the latest Wiring Code for your locality. (Town/State).

Some 240V appliances, such as clothes dryers, ovens or kitchen ranges, have timers or other devices inside them which only require a 120V power supply, so they need a Neutral wire to supply that voltage.

Some other 240V appliances, such as water heaters, do not need a neutral wire because they only have a very simple heating element that is connected just to the two "hot" legs of the 240V supply. These should now be colored Red and Black; one hot leg is actually 120V above Neutral and the other hot leg is 120V below Neutral. But all appliances still need to have a Ground wire: it must be connected to the appliance's outside metal casing to protect users from possible electrocution. The Ground wire must be separate from any Neutral wire and has nothing to do with any connection to a Neutral wire that is needed for 120V purposes. <><><> As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

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Q: How do you hook up 240 volts for an oven that has a red wire black wire and white wire where does the white wire go?
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