If you are a do it yourselfer, there are many adapters available to replace a broken cast-iron toilet flange. These adapters can be made of cast-iron itself or PVC. They are made to be inserted into the existing pipe where a rubber gasket is tightened to create a water tight seal. The adapter incorporates a new flange which is attached to the existing sub-floor. Other adapters even help in the case of damaged or rotten sub-floor around the waste pipe. If you do a search on "Repair Kit For Cast-Iron Closet Flange" you should come up with numerous options or you can visit your local pluming supply company who can provide you with both products and answers to any questions/concerns you might have. And if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself after investigating what is involved, call a licensed plumber.
If only the top part where the bolts go into is broken, you can use a compression retro flange that will slide into the existing 4" cast iron. This will go right over the old one. If this makes it to high, cut the top of the old flange off and use the compression.
Clean the lead to remove all the oxidation then use a non corrosive flux and also clean the Brass floor flange again removing all the oxidation then you can either TIN the brass flange or just lead with it to the lead pipe">Clean the lead to remove all the oxidation then use a non corrosive flux and also clean the Brass floor flange again removing all the oxidation then you can either TIN the brass flange or just lead with it to the lead pipe
You cut the cast iron pipe using an inside pipe cutter then set the cast iron floor flange using oakum you pack the joint with in 1" of the top and fill the annular space with molten lead
Cut the No hub pipe use a quick set cast iron floor flange
Plastic FORGETABOUTIT unless your doing really low icome housing
depending on your type of flange and pipe and the damage of the flange, if you have a PVC flange with just the bolt slots busted then you can screw in new bolts to the floor below the flange and still use the flange but if its broken where the wax seal sits then if your flange is lower then the floor you can use a insert flange that fits inside your old toilet flange with thin walls to keep the pipe size maximum. To replace the entire flange can be a job especially if its in concrete or in a floor joist because most of the time you have no room and if its cast iron pipe it can be even more of headache but in order to replace the flange you need to cut it out to where you can reconnect the pipe and flange by using a fernco or a no hub band. Sometimes it is impossible to replace because the flange can be on all close fittings and you pretty much have to replace most of the plumbing drain pipe to replace it properly which is why you want to try repairing your toilet flange rather then replacing it .
Depends on the type what means I use to replace it CAST Iron/ BRASS / Antimony / PVC / SCREWED TYPE
You have to take the lead and packing out that is holding the flange in the next piece of pipe. If your flange is broke where the toilet bolts go, this is very common. There is a repair available for this. It consists of two curved pieces of metal that are about 1/3 of the circumference of the flange. They go under the flange and give you a new place to put the bolt. They are a lot easier to use than replacing the whole flange.
Toilet flanges OUTSIDE of the pipe including cast iron and brass to lead
Change how? Move the location, you bust out the concrete and move it. Replace or repair the flange that the toilet hooks to. Cut the existing flange off flush with the floor and install a new repair flange. They can be brass or steel. You can use a PVC one that fits in the drain and seal it with a wax ring under it and screw it to the floor. If you are working with cast iron flange and the slots where the bolts are supposed to go is broken out, they make a repair piece for this. It is a 3/4 inch wide by 3-4 inch long crescent shape piece that slides under the flange and the bolt that holds the toilet fits into it. You may have to chip out a little concrete along the edge to get these under the flange.
it can cost from as little as 100 to as much as 1000 depending who does it and what is actually wrong. if the flange is cast iron it will be more. if it is glued abs or pvc and the drain is broke thats gonna cost more than 200. you may not need to actually repalce the flange and you may be able to use a metal repair bracket. If the flange is unrepairable its a dirty job and if the flange is glued that means the drain has to get cut back and then coupled and extended. and remember plumbers dont fix walls. so any holes made wont be their resonsiblity to fix.
If you can get to the 6 inch cast iron, you could use a rubber coupler between the cast and the flange. If it is in the concrete, put a piece of 4 inch PVC inside the 6 inch and lead it in like you would a regular cast joint. Leave the 4 inch above the floor and slide the flange over it, screw it down and cut the 4 inch flush with the flange. They make just the flange that will slide over the pipe.
I removed the broken flange by perforating the lead filling between the drain pipe and the flange - i.e., drilling holes every 1/4-1/2 inch or so with a regular drill and then sawing through the filling with a power saber saw. Then pried the flange off with a pry bar. Wasn't as bad as I expected. - Dan
Cut the toilet line down at the first 90 from the flange, and relocate so that your toilet is still vented from it's orignal vent. If it is dry vented, you need to move the toilet and the vent. A no-hub band or fernco coupling is the preferred transistion from cast iron to PVC.Ans 2 -good advice. - BTW, - a Fernco is a heavy duty rubber coupling with a hose clamp each end. They come in many sizes.
you can't cut the pipe back use a cuppler and come off of that There is a tool that will cut the old flange off that will not damage the pipe. It is brand new to the market and is available through Locke plumbing supply, or call the manufacturer, Woods plumbing in OKC....405-722-2925
Or repair what you have. Cast iron broke where the bolt goes. There is a steel half moon piece available that slips under the lip of the cast iron and bridges the broken out place. There is a brass ring available that screws down over the drain. It comes in a flat steel ring also.
Cast iron, often break where the bolts sit. There is a repair kit available. It is two flat curved pieces of metal about 3/4 wide and one third the circumference of the flange. It slides under the flange and pulls against the remaining cast iron. There is a complete ring available that is just a flat ring with 6 ears sticking out around the edge that should clear the cast iron. Screw it down to the floor and install the toilet. The full ring can be used with any flange.