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If you are re-grouting tile, all the old grout must be out, and the area free of dirt and grime. Before you begin you need to make sure of the following. * What is your grout spacing? If it is less than 1/8" you must use non sanded grout. 1/8" or large must use sanded grout. This is something to not be guessed at. Older style 4 1/4" x 4 1/4" usually need non sanded, but today grout spaces on the wall have become larger. If you use the wrong grout, you will be reducing this in short order. * You have no loose tile. Grouting over them will not bond them better to the wall. By leaving them, your grout lines will crack and allow water to make its way back behind the wall. * You have all of your supplies on hand and ready You will need the following supplies * Grout, enough to complete the entire job. * 2 tile sponges * 3 buckets at least 2 1/2 gallons * Good quality grout float - this is a rubber rectangle with a wood handle, used to spread the grout. * Matching silicone caulk * A clean lint free towel or rag * Sealer (not used the day of install!!) When looking for grout, make sure it is latex fortified. Epoxy grouts are great too, but are often hard for a do-it-yourselfer to work with. Grout comes in much larger bags then most people could work within the window it needs to be applied once mixed. Just like a cake recipe you need to measure carefully. Break the bag into four parts along with the mixing instructions. It is best to not "eyeball it" if you want a consistent color. Adding to much or to little water can leave the color off from the other mixed batches. The final mixture it should be about mashed potatoes consistency. Make sure all the thin set is off the face of the tile. Work in a 4'x4' area to start. Using your grout float start at the top of the wall. You want to go diagonal to the grout spacing. This will prevent your float from hitting the joints and marring the lines. Don't allow the grout to sit on the face of the tile longer then 20 minutes before you start wiping. Fill both of the remaining buckets with clean water. Have separate sponges for each bucket. The first water bucket will be for the first few wipes and the second for the remaining final clean up. Using your first sponge start at the top and wipe straight down without stopping. At the bottom of your grouted tile, move your sponge over flip it over and wipe up. Rinse sponge. Continue until your 4 foot area is wiped completely. With the second sponge and repeat the same process. This prevents you from spreading the grout all over the tile and actually takes off more. You want to continue this process until the tile is completely clean. You can at the end use a clean rag careful not to touch the wet grout. The tile is not clean enough if you can still see a film on the tile. This will dry on the face of the tile and leave it looking cloudy and dull. Once all the tile are completely grouted, take your silicone caulk and caulk all the inside corners and where the tile meets the floor, tub, or counter. The grout will need to dry for at least 3 days. Twice a day spray the grout with a water bottle. This helps the grout to dry evenly On the 4th day you can take your sealer. Follow the instructions on your product because sealers are applied differently. Most need to be applied 2 or 3 times. Allow this to dry over night and your job is complete. The best cleaner for ceramic and porcelain tile is vinegar and water. A half and half mixture will clean the toughest stains. Never use it on natural stone.

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Same as on the floor. Trowel either mastic or thin set mortar on the wall and place the tile. Either one will hold the tile on the wall until it sets.

I use Acrylpro Tile Adhesive because it plasticizes-- and I trowel it on in a vertical fashion NOT HORIZONTAL--This allows any water build-up from seam seepage to Not build up onto the drywall.--- Do the large wall first -- then the back-- then the fixture side.

I usually trowel on the acrylpro adhesive with a 3/8 notched trowel and then I trowel adhesive on a bunch of tiles with a fine "v" notched trowel and wait about 20 minutes for both the coated wall and the coated tiles to cure a bit because when I decide to mount the tiles the devil and his mother mother can't move 'em -- so be sure to set up a standing bench for setting your coated tiles on as you wait for them to cure a bit. If you walk away for too long and the adhesive dries too much-- just have a spray bottle with paint thinner and with a fine spray nozzle-- spray the adhesive to re-enact the adhesive-- wait about 30 seconds and go to work.

first draw your level horizontal line on the wall and screw a straight edge piece of wood slab like a 1 x 3 or a 2 x 4 onto the wall even with your written line -- this will be your starting row-- and continue placing the tiles going upward in staircase fashion-- after the top portion is up- allow to cure and set and the next day or a few hours later start doing the bottom portion simply following what you have already done.

leave the side with the fixtures for last-- this side requires you to cut out for spout and stem holes. I use a regular 4 1/2 inch angle grinder to cut my tile pieces when I don't have my tiles wet cutter because the holes I need are no more than 1 square inch.

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A tile can be called a manufactured form of ceramic, stone etc. These are all strong resources. The word tile comes from a French word called 'tuile'. Tiles are used for a lot of purposes, such as flooring etc. Let's move on to understand the process of installing a ceramic wall tile only on eastmanceramic.com.

Ceramic Tile Installation - Material

For installing ceramic wall and floor tiles, you require ceramic tiles, adhesive for tiles, a grout mix, measurement tape, pencil, level, caulk, a saw used to cut tiles, sponge, notched trowel, tile spacers, rubber float, and spacers.

Installing Ceramic Wall Tiles

  • The primary step is to set the right layout of your wall. In order to install the ceramic tiles, measure the length and width of your wall, locate and begin installation from the center of the wall. Further to ensure whether the tile pattern fits properly on the edges, 'dry fit' the tiles.
  • Now, with the help of a pencil, a few horizontal and vertical lines should be marked on the wall, as the size of the tile has to be the same on reaching each end.
  • The next step is to apply the tile adhesive onto the wall with the help of notched trowel and fix the tiles on the adhesive. Do not forget to leave spaces between the tiles which can be done with the help of tile spacers.
  • Further trim the tiles on the ends, if required. If the tiles are sharp at the ends, sandpaper could be used to smoothen them.
  • Leave the tiles to dry and bond properly with the adhesive for the whole night.
  • Ensure that the tiles have dried up the next day and then remove the tile spacers
  • Next step is to mix the grout.
  • Apply the grout at an approximately 45 degree angle with the help of a rubber float. The excess or the unwanted grout mix can be removed with the help of a sponge.
  • Remove the haze that appears on the grout after about 60-70 minutes.
  • The final step is to take the caulk and seal the edges.
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Q: How do you install ceramic tiles on wall?
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