Most starters are marked with a + (positive) and a - (negative) on the terminals themselves,just like your battery. Usually the larger terminal where the battery cable connects to the starter is the positive terminal. .
On a most starters both posts are hot(+) and the casing is grounded(-) .Usually the bigger post is a direct wire from the battery and the smaller post is a remote wire from the starter switch.
Follow the positive battery cable wire (+) to the other end, that should lead you there. Because it will be connected to the starter solenoid. Please take note, a solenoid mounted on a starter has no ground wire, but a solenoid separated from the starter and mounted on the firewall does.
Look for a + by the positive terminal and a - by the negative terminal, or red for positive, black for negative. Some batteries have the positive terminal protruding and the negative terminal flat. Or you can get a meter that will tell you which is which,
You start by disconecting the negative - battery terminal. climb undre the car and dixconect the 2 whires going to the starter. Then unbolt the starter from the transmission. replace is the same way, just oppisite. If you don't even know where the starter is than, follow the positive battery cable till it stops. that is the starter.
Use a jumper wire from the battery + (pos) terminal to the positive on the blower motor, and run a - (Ground) wire from ground on the motor, to chassis or frame.
Some never used positive ground and always had negative ground. The last year that I know where positive ground was used was in 1969 when Jaguar switched to negative.
Hook up the positive battery terminal first then the ground. Make sure you know wich cable is wich. The ground ( usually black on American cars, brown on European ) will lead from the battery negative pole to the body of the car or be grounded on the engine probably near the alternator. The positive cable ( usually red on American cars, black on European cars) will lead to the starter solenoid. If you aren't sure consult your repair or owner's manual but don't get them backwards whatever you do.
Following the cables into the engine compartment. The positive cable will run to the alternator or the starter. The negative cable will just connect to a ground source (engine block, frame, etc.)
Normally the terminals are marked on the coil ( if it's a bosch coil the one marked 15 is the primary winding positive terminal ). The large center one is the secondary positive ( the one that leads to your distributor ) and the two on the sides of it are the positive primary and the ground. If you don't know wich one is wich disconect the battery then disconnect the two smaller wires and remember wich one goes where. Use an ohm meter to test the resistance between a good ground on the body or engine block on each wire. The one that has no or very low resistance is the ground wire. If you are holding a coil in your hand and it isn't marked use the ohm meter to check the resistance between the secondary positive and the other two terminals. There should be infinite resistance ( open circuit ) to the positive of the secondary and 6Kohms or there abouts to the common ground terminal.
The starter solenoid shows to be on top of starter. If you don't know where the starter is located, follow the positive battery cable. You may have to get under vehicle to get at the starter. I replace starter and solenoid as a unit. Now, if your talking about starter relay that is a different animal.
The best way to check a starter is to take it out of the vehicle and bench test it. Disconnect your battery ground before you do and remember ( or better yet mark ) the wires to know where to properly reconnect them. After the starter is out of the car you will need a set of jumper cables, a fused jumper and a fully charged battery. Connect the negative cable to the negative battery terminal and the body of the starter. Usually it is easiest to hook it up to the mounting flange where the bolt holes that hold it onto the motor are. The positive lead should be connected to the larger of the studs where the thickest cable was connected to the starter solenoid. Then, using your fused jumper, jump the positive lead to the smaller of the studs on the solenoid where the ignition signal came from. If you aren't sure wich wire gave the ignition signal consult your repair manual, electrical schematics or don't attempt this test. When you jump the power to this terminal the solenoid should click and the starter motor should whine. The bendix spring will kick out the starter gear and it will start to spin. If these things don't happen your starter or the starter solenoid is faulty. Keep in mind that a blown fuse or fusible link, faulty relay, dirty ground connection or wire connection, faulty ignition switch, or a shorted wire can also cause a starter not to operate correctly.
I own a 1948 John Deere B so I know for a fact that B's serial number 201000 and up have positive ground. Don't reverse the polarity cause it'll fry the generator and possibly the starter (the starter might even turn backwards - not sure cause I've always been sure to connect the batter with positive ground). The older B's should most likely be the same as 201000 and up. My dad told me that a lot of old vehicles from the 40's had positive ground. Not sure why though.
grounding is always neg on a 12 volt american car. I only know bulldozers that reverse it. hope that helps you out.
The electricity flows out the negative terminal, through the work load, and back into the positive terminal. It consists of negative electrons. In the early days of electrical experimenting, the scientists had to guess as to whether the electric flow was positive particles or negative particles. They had no way to test. They guessed positive. They were wrong. So we have inherited a definition of current as positive fluid going from positive terminal (outside the battery now) to negative terminal. We have stayed with that convention even though we know better today. It makes no difference at the circuit level. Positive particles flowing rightward has the same effect as negative particles flowing leftward. Of course, if you are designing batteries, you will want to know what flows which way.
Turn car on remove positive battery terminal if car turns off alternator is bad
easiest wat to check a starter is to turn on ignition.then with a screw driver cross the positive lead to starter wire on the starter motor if the starter is good this will turn over the engine if starter is bad it will not if this does tuen over engine , you can then check solenoid and other ignition parts
There is a purely arbitrary convention that the charge on the electron is negative, and the charge on the proton is positive. All we really know is that the charges are opposite; they are not really negative and positive in any fundamental sense. So, a terminal from which negatively charged electrons come, would also be considered to be negative.
If it has more than one cable I'm surprised. It usually has one positive cable and uses the mount as a ground. In the case of there being two cables don't know.
I don't know what model or engine you have but if you follow the positive battery cable from the battery, it will lead you right to the starter.
I need to know how to change a starter on a 93 Chevy z71 Unhook battery cables from battery, take the ground wire off starter, take power wire off starter, take the 2 bolts out of starter and should come right out
Find the cable that is connected directly to the frame or sub-frame of the car. If it is red, then Positive is ground; If it is black, then Negative is ground. More than likely (but not in all cases) the electrical system is Negative ground.
Electronic flow is true. Conventional flow was thought to have positive charges flowing from the + terminal to the - terminal. This was before we knew that it is actually the electrons which flow, and the positive charges cannot move out of their atomic nuclei. Now that electrons have been detected, and protons are known to stay within the nucleus unless a nuclear reaction takes place, we know that it is the electrons that flow from the - terminal to the + terminal. This is known as electronic flow.
Connect the positive clip of the battery charger to the positive terminal on the battery. Connect the negative clip of the battery charger to the negative terminal on the battery. Select the charge rate you desire either 2,4, or 6 amp. The newer battery chargers will let you know when it is fully charged.
The factory sound system has a coded theft protection system. It is recommended that you know your reset code before you begin.Disconnect the negative battery cable.Remove all wiring from harness.Remove the lower radiator hose from the bracket on the starter motor.Remove the starter cable from terminal B located on the back of the solenoid.Remove the black/white wire from the S (solenoid) terminal.Remove the two bolts that mount the starter to the transaxle assembly.Remove the starter.To install:Install in the reverse order of removal.When installing the heavy gauge starter cable, make sure the crimped side of the terminal end is facing out.Enter the anti-theft code and radio presets.
I would crawl underneath the vehicle and attach a battery charger (+ Red) directly to the starter center terminal and the other end( black - )to a good ground. This will charge your battery.
Battery Or The Terminals Are Not Making Good Contact And Need To Be Cleaned. I Would Test This First. Next Your Starter Could Have A Few Problems. Worn Bushings, Brushes, Weak Armature, Solenoid. Ect. Check Out Your Battery And Battery Terminals. This May Take Care Of It. One Other Thing Have Your Alternator Tested. You Can Have This Done At Most Garrages Without Removing It. In order to correct a problem, you MUST KNOW WHAT IS CAUSING THAT PROBLEM. This requires an analysis of the symptoms, and an understanding of how components operate in order to first eleminate all those things which COULD NOT cause the symptoms. Then continue to eleminate, one by one, the other components which COULD cause the symptoms. If I understand your question, you say that when "you "'jump' the starter, it fires right up..." Since you didn't mention otherwise, I have to assume you used the battery in the vehicle to jump the starter. This suggests SEVERAL things: 1. There is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG WITH THE STARTER, not bushings, brushes, or weak armature. IF ANY of these were the problem, then "jumping out the starter" would not cause it to "fire right up..." 2. The same is true for "checking the battery." The battery is fine, or "jumping' the starter would not fire it right up. Also, to jump, requires clamping a jumper cable[s] onto the battery terminal cable clamp[s] which are clamped onto the battery terminal posts, suggesting that there is nothing wrong with either the terminal posts, or the connection of the terminal clamps to the posts. 3. Since the battery is in good strong shape [obviously, as it cranks the engine, and "it fires right up"], there is NOTHING WRONG WITH THE ALTERNATOR. There is no need to have the alternator tested, unless you just feel like taking the time, and spending the money a garage will charge. Now, let's analyze what COULD cause the ONLY symptom you mention: "...turn the key and NOTHING happens..." Consider WHAT turning the key DOES. On your vehicle, turning the key completes a circuit from the battery positive terminal post to the start terminal in the ignition switch, then via a small wire to a small terminal on the starter solenoid on the starter. Then current is fed through the coil [activating the coil] inside the solenoid to ground, and thence back to the negative terminal post on the battery. When the solenoid coil is activated, it becomes an electromagnet, which pulls the plunger in, which does two things: 1] engages the starter gear teeth into the teeth on the engine flywheel, and 2] closes a very heavy duty contact switch inside the solenoid which connects the positive battery terminal [via a heavy cable (positive)] to the starter winding, causing the starter to turn, cranking the engine. SINCE NOTHING HAPPENS when the key is turned, it is concluded that the problem is an "OPEN CIRCUIT" condition in this circuit [battery positive terminal to starter solenoid. Ther are several things which could cause such an open circuit: 1. A broken or cut wire. 2. A disconnection at any terminal[s] in the circuit. 3. A failed fuse or fusible link in the circuit. 4. A failed, defective contact within the ignition switch. 5. A broken wire [very small] in the coil winding inside the solenoid. The next step is to use a multi-meter or test light to check for and confirm the presense of 12 volts at the small wire terminal [coil terminal] ON the starter solenoid. To make this test, the STARTER SWITCH MUST BE HELD IN the START position WHILE the test is being made. IF there IS voltage AT THIS TERMINAL, when the key is in the START position, then the failure, and your problem, IS INSIDE the STARTER SOLENOID. IF there is NOT 12 volts in the above test, then the problem is an open somewhere else in the circuit, somewhere between the battery positive terminal and the coil terminal on the solenoid. The next step is to use the multi-meter or test light to check for 12 volts at the input terminal on the ignition switch. If there is NO voltage there, then the "open" in the circuit is between there and the positive terminal on the battery. If there IS voltage there, then check for voltage at the OUTPUT terminal ["Starter" TERMINAL] of the ignition switch, WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH HELD IN THE "START" POSITION. If there is voltage there, the ignition switch is OK, and the open circuit problem is in the wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid coil terminal. All of this is very tedious and time consuming, THAT'S WHY auto service work at a shop is so expensive. There is another way to approach the solution to this problem. I call it the "SHOTGUN METHOD," and consists of simply replacing components [ignition switch, starter solenoid, and starter] until the problem goes away. There are TWO FLAWS in this approach: 1. It is VERY EXPENSIVE TO UNNECESSARILY REPLACE these parts, and 2. After doing so, if the problem is NOT SOLVED, then that tells you the problem is an open in the wiring circuit, and you STILL HAVE TO TROUBLESHOOT the entire wiring circuit.
On my 1995 Ford Explorer , as far as I know , the starter solenoid is mounted on the starter and the starter relay ( which most people just refer to as the solenoid ) is mounted near my battery and has the positive battery cable connected to it ( a relay is a low voltage switch ) P.S. I'm not a mechanic / technician