Sound like the main line, front to back. Trace the line up to the front and find a solid place in the line, cut it with a line cutter and get a brake flaring tool. PUT A FLARE NUT on the front section of the line and using aflarein tool flare the end of the line from the front you're going to save. Buy some steel line and run it to the back where the rubber flex hose is. Cut the old line tight to the old flare nut and get a six point socket to fit tightly over the nut. Use a line wrench to keep the flex hose from turning and loosen the old nut. Measure you new line, cut it to fit, take it off the truck and PUT NEW FLARE NUTS ON THE LINE FIRST then flare both ends & install. Bleed the brakes at the wheel cylinders and it should be fine. If you have to replace the whole line its the same proceedure except you remove the flare nut at the front end and then make a longer line. Premade lengths are also available and you use connectors to join them.
It takes special equipment and line to make brake line. If someone in your area has this equipment they can make new ones. If not you will have to buy them. depending on the year make and model you might be able to purchase factory brake lines pre bent . from the dealer
Disconnect brake line at the nearest junction Disconnect brake line at the affected wheel cylinder Route new brake line same way old one was Connect both ends Bleed the wheel cylinder on that line MAKE SURE MASTER CYLINDER DOES NOT RUN EMPTY
Remove the line and replace it. Then make sure to keep the master cylinder full while you & a helper bleed the front brake caliber. Be sure and use brake line tools and not open-end wrenches or you will damage the brake lines.
The cost to repair a brake line will depend on the make and model of the car. Without further details it is not possible to give an estimate.
If there is no fluid coming from the brake line, there are two possibilities: 1. there is no damage in the brake line, merely air in the brake line. 2. The brake fluid may already be completely depleted. To find out, get some water with a bunch of dish soap in it, but try not to make a lot of suds. Pour the water over the whole brake line and watch the line while someone pumps the brake pedal. If bubbles form, then there's the hole. No bubbles? Air in the line or perhaps damage in the master or slave cylinder.
Yes, you just cant pass in a double solid yellow line.
The year, make, model and what you have done to the brake system so far would help.
95 rodeos are known to have rust problems.Youre fluid lines are probally rusted and have to be replaced. You can get the lines at an auto store pretty cheap. Get a little pipe cutter and cut off the bad part of the line and use a flare kit to put the new piece in. Make sure you cut the line straight if not youll have a hard time getting the right flare to hold on the connecter unions.
You may make a legal left turn across a double yellow line.You may not PASS another vehicle by crossing over the double yellow line.
I believe it is.Added: You may make a legal left turn across a double yellow line.You may not PASS another vehicle by crossing over the double yellow line.
I just finished replacing the brake lines on an '89 Bonneville LE...it's not hard to do, but make sure you plan it well. You have two main options. You can cut the damaged section of the line out and splice in a new piece of line. Or, you can replace the entire line. Of course, if the end of the line is damaged, you have to at least replace that end. First of all, check the end of the line to see whether it uses standard SAE inverted 45 degree flare or the metric bubble flare. The '89 used bubble flare. You can either look at the end of the line itself(compare to lines found at a parts store, they should have both types), or if the nut is seized in the hose and you can't see it, ask to look at the hose connector...if it is built to accept an inverted flare, the center of the fitting, around the hole, will be pushed out. You will need to put the same ends on the line you make. Long pieces of bubble flare can be hard to find, so it may be worth buying a piece of inverted flare and connecting bubble flare sections. I definitely recommend buying Cunifer, or alloy, lines instead of steel. They bend more easily, and if you have to tweak minor details once you start installing, it's nearly impossible with traditional steel lines. If you can't find a piece long enough with bubble flare, you can purchase an inverted flare tool fairly cheap from Sears or a parts store. Cut a bubble end in half and flare the cut end with the tool. Then use an end to end connector (found at parts store) to connect the bubble end to your line. Measure the length of line you need. With a tubing bender (or by hand with Cunifer, though a tubing bender makes the bends more precise anyway, and they're cheap) bend it into approximately the same shape as the line you're replacing. You can only splice in straight sections with a decent amount of clearance, so be sure to plan your splices ahead of time if you are patching (and if you needed to splice bubble ends...the connectors do take up a bit of space) and use the flare tool on the lines under the car if you are patching. Put the line in the car, tighten any end to end connectors you used, tweak the lines if they don't fit the original layout properly, and voila, you're done. Connect the hoses and bleed the brakes! (yes, I know that is a whole extra procedure, but this is already a ridiculously long post and there are plenty of brake bleeding threads out there) Any time you flare a line, be SURE to put the fitting on first. If you don't, you'll have to cut off your new flare, put the fitting on, and then re-flare it. Oh, and this website: www.fedhillusa.com is really useful. They have pictures of fittings, explain the flare and fittings (with pics) and describe Cunifer lines compared to steel. Good luck...once you start, you'll see it's not that hard. It's just easy to realize you're missing a connector or fitting or something, so it can mean trips to the Auto store if you don't plan (or drop something, or whatever...)
Hayes Brake Controller Company is a manufacture that has been designing and building brake controllers for 60 years now. They are easy to install and have a reliable line of electronic trailer brake controllers available.
There are several companies that make flare guns, such as 'Hebel'. Alternatively, one might try the brands 'Wolseley', 'Webley' or 'Berridge' for flare guns.
A person can use a diagram as guide to make changes in the a car. The 1991 Ford F150 brake line diagram can be found in the cars maintenance manuals.
The holes at the end of your nose flare if you make the holes bigger. It can be more easily seen on a horse.
there are two sides service and parking/emergency check to make sure the slack adjuster retracts when pulled and check emergency spring on end to make sure its lined up and not broken. and make a full brake application to ensure there are not diaphram or brake line leaks
A brake line diagram for a 1995 Ford F150 can be found in a Hayes Repair Manual for that make and year of Ford. This manual is available for around $25 at most automobile parts stores.
In the US, yes this is legal. A single or double white line signifies only that you should not change lanes.
This warning indicates that you are low on brake fluid in the resevioir. Open the hood, check the fluid levels. If this is not the case, i would double check your E-Brake and make sure that it is fully disengaged.
The brake line itseif could be coming apart inside and not letting brake fluid return to master cylinder. and need to check cailber mounting bolts (SLIDES) make sure they slide freely and are not stuck.
(In the US) There should never be a time when you have to cross a double yellow line in order to make a right turn.
Cost is about $ 60.00 cdn. for just the back. You will need some special fittings from your local auto parts. A small length fitting for the back brakes, which join into the original size, and a special fitting for the front abs fitting. The auto parts will have all the parts. Just be careful to get the right lines. Take the old fittings with you to get replaced. There are North American, British, and Japanese, fittings. The crown is double flare, and not bubble flare. Also, make sure you have the right joiners, these are to join the lengths together. Just measure what you need, and also, a small tube bender is a good idea. Not expensive. You will need this to form the curves in the brake line without damaging the lines. Good luck.