IN order to answer this question, the year of the motor is a necessity because the type of ignition differs. Yet, since you are talking about setting timing it is probably a motor with a distribuitor, as opposed to coil packs. To set timing, you must have a timing light; a light with an advance is optimal and what I use. Start off by connecting the power leads of the light to your vehicle's motor and the other lead wire to the number one cylinder plug wire on your motor (the cylinder on the right bank in the very front when facing the front end of the vehicle). Then, start the vehicle and point the timing light towards the left side of the harmonic balancer, there should be a small plate with an "A , 0 , and R". On the harmonic balancer, there should be a small tick mark that keeps moving, that will point out the timing. In order to adjust timing, you must move the distributor back and forth after loosing the retaining nut for it. Set the desired advance on your timing light and then move the distributor until you see the tick mark hitting "0". Optimal timing for a stock 350 is about 12 to 13�. after the timing is set, tighten up the retaining nut, shut down the motor, and clean up.
no it doesnt matter all 350 Chevy firing orders are the same!
Moparman or whatever your name was, your answer has nothing to do with the question. And Gen III SBC are different. The first answer is right. Make sure you disconnect the ETC wire if your vehicle runs off a computer.
That requires a timing light, you loosen a bolt on the distributor and turn it a little until the marks on the main pulley match a notch that you aim the timing light at.
Initial timing is set by aligning the crank with the 0 mark and aligning the distributor rotor with the line on the pick up plate. The distributor is then synced with a scan tool. It is set to exactly 0 degrees to match the crank sensor. This can no be done with a timing light.Initial timing is set by aligning the crank with the 0 mark and aligning the distributor rotor with the line on the pick up plate. The distributor is then synced with a scan tool. It is set to exactly 0 degrees to match the crank sensor. This can no be done with a timing light.
you also have to make sure distributor is intalled correctly to match the timing
With the possible exception of some very early small block heads that had offset valve cover bolts, yes, it will all fit the 283 engine.
no... you don't want to mix diesel and gas engine parts if its not an exact match you can mess your engine up....
About any GM will go However if it has computer the engine must match.
On the flywheel. Match the ball which is I believe around 5 degrees with the tab. Timing marks are through access hole with tab on passenger side.
I can offer the timing procedure for my '87. Timing is done with the engine running (non-static method). Hook things up, check to make sure no wiring will get caught while you're using the light and adjusting the distributor. DON'T DO YOUR FIRST TIMING UNTIL ALL ITEMS ARE SET UP AND YOU'VE CHECKED TO MAKE SURE YOU WONT GET SOMETHING CAUGHT IN THE MOVING PARTS OF THE ENGINE. BE SURE ITEMS SUCH AS NECKLACES, BRACELETS, HAIR, CLOTHING, OR WIRES ARE REMOVED OR TIED AWAY FROM THE MOVING PARTS OF THE ENGINE. WARM UP ENGINE AND OBSERVE MOVING PARTS. WHEN ENGINE IS WARMED UP (RADIATOR FAN COMES ON), TURN OFF ENGINE. DO HOOKUPS AND VERIFICATION FOR SAFETY. START ENGINE AND BEGIN WORK SLOWLY, CAREFULLY. A timed engine will "hum" and make your car fuel-efficient. Don't rush. It's not complicated but this needs precision on a running engine. BE CAREFUL. SAFETY FIRST! Timing is done with a timing light shined on the timing mark on the flywheel while the engine is running. The timing mark is located on the flywheel. To see it, there is a small "porthole" about 1" square covered by a square rubber plug. The hole/plug is located on the FRONT of the engine, about 4" from the centerline on the passenger's side. It's down about 5" from the #3 or #4 spark plug. When you pull off the hole's black, square plug: There are three colored marks on the flywheel. You may not see them until the flywheel is rotated or the car is running with the timing light shining on the "pointer" in the hole. THE GREEN MARK IS FOR TIMING. The Red is top-dead center. The White is ???? There is a pointer visible thru the hole which is the alignment item used to align the green mark. The adjustment for the timing is done by rotating the distributor (you must loosen the distributor screws a little). Timing should be done with the engine at the right idle speed, so be sure the tachometer is checked after the car is warmed up (my idle speed is around 750-800 rpm). Your idle speed will be specified on the underside of engine hood, on a sticker showing emissions information. The distributor is to be moved with a little friction from the holding screws so that it doesn't change after you set it and before you tighten one of the screws. Check the timing again afterwards to be sure the distributor wasn't moved during the tightening procedure. So CHECK THE DISTRIBUTOR FOR MOVEMENT BEFORE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. Tighten/loosen at least one of the screws so you can move the distributor but not allow the distributor to change position after you get the timing right. FOR OTHER SETUPS: The timing mark is often located on the end of the engine(near distributor)on the passenger's side, near the main belt pulley. This 5" round pulley probably has all the accessory belts on it (usually three belts) and is located about 12" down from the top of the engine. There is a notch on the pulley that is used as a match-up mark to the mark on the engine block ABOVE the pulley. The mark on the engine is likely about 3" by 1" square with lines on it--perhaps even the numbers indicating the degrees before (or after) top-dead center. Either way, if the specified timing is 15 degrees BEFORE top-dead center, then look for the line with a "15". In this example there might be a "20" on one side of the fifteen, and a "10" on the otherside. MARK THE PULLEY WITH WHITE-OUT, WHITE PAINT, OR CHALK so you can see it when the engine is running. FOR ALL SETUPS: TIMING LIGHT: The timing light is hooked up to the battery (red/black clamps) and the #1 SPARK PLUG WIRE. Be careful before starting engine that the slack in the wires doesn't get caught on moving parts. Once the car is running, point the timing light at the white mark on the pulley. The timing light strobes on/off with each electrical pulse given to the #1 spark plug wire. While pointing the light, you move the distributor, slightly at first, left-right to watch how the white mark moves back and forth in front of the engine mark-lines. If the distributor is too loose, turn the vehicle off and tighten one of the screws a little and see if the distributor has some friction when moving it. Once the distributor has the timing mark aligned with the pointer or engine mark, then tighten one of the distributor nuts (not too tight) and use timing light to recheck. If the marks don't align, then loosen the distributor and realign; tighten, then check. Turn off engine. Tighten distributor. Start engine, recheck marks and if OK, TURN OFF ENGINE. Loosen all the timing light wires and remove from engine compartment. If you do this while the engine is running, you'll have a good possibility of catching one of the wires in the engine (bad scene). CONSIDER a valve adjustment after the timing if you want. Some vehicles have one or two vacuum hoses or electrical devices disconnected while doing the timing.
The fuel injection timing in a gas engine will not affect the mean effective pressure. In a diesel engine is the principal factor managing the bmep. In a gas engine the fuel injection timing have to match the events of valve opening or tuned induction but have nothing to do with mean effective pressure.
The 1987 Honda Prelude has a timing belt. It's made of rubber and is grooved to match up with the cogs on the engine. It does not have a metal chain.
yes you can swap the 454 for the 350 its compatible usually any Chevy engine will match in the same vehicle might have to do sum fabrication but in ur situation you should be fine
The engine might fit the space, but unlikely with match up with the transmission linkage.
ur timings off the blocks timing doesnt match ur heads timing so the valves open up as the piston comes up and hits the valve
Pour 5 gallons of gasoline in engine bay. Strike match and ignite gasoline. Presto! All fixed!
First you need to have a timing light, once you have attained one (if you didn't already have one) you have to hook up the alligator clips on the respective battery terminals and the inductive lead on the #1 cylinder spark plug wire. Next you need to loosen (not remove) the distributor hold down clamp bolt. With engine running, you need to watch the timing marks on the vibration dampener attached to the crankshaft pulley and adjust (turn) the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise until the appropriate mark (see the emissions sticker by hood latch for desired timing setting) lines up with the pointer on front of motor, being VERY careful not to let and wires for timing light or any part of you get too close to cooling fan! When the lines match, tighten clamp and you should be fine. It may take two people (one to watch the marks and one to turn the distributor) to adjust.
You match the timing marks on the sprockets with the marks on the belt...exactly.
first get a can of brake parts cleaner spray then spray lower crank pulley locate the top dead center line etched on pulley,mark it with yellow nail polish or paint. then locate the timing scale mounted on the timing cover, the brake cleaner will allow you to read the increments on the scale find your cars timing setting then mark the degree scale on timing cover with the bright paint. to set timing you must have a timing light.hooked up to # 1 cylinder. then you must disconnect the timing advance hose that runs to the distributor. this will allow you to set base timing. you need to loosen your distributor just enough so you can turn it dont pull mounting bolt out of base of distributor, it will pop out and you will jump timing. use a 9/16 distrbutor wrench loosen half a turn and you should be able to move dist. make sur your in the shade and timing light wire are out of way of moving parts start car aim timing light at lower crank and timing scale with the paint marks you will see the line and the scale sort of like a strobe motion,move distributor untill the two lines match up turn car off tighten distributor dont forget to hook up vacuum hose. if you use premium fuel you can go a bit above factory settings more timing is more horse power as long as there is no pinging or detonation
to my knowledge a windsor 351 is a ford engine. so how would you evem match a gm distributer cap
No, the injectors are rated differently, you would be dumping fuel into the engine. The computer and injectors wouldn't match up.
A distributor is not hard to change as long as you follow some simple rules: (1) Set number one piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) before starting the job. (2) Make marks on the distributor and the engine so you will be able to match the two marks when re-installing the distributor. (3) DO NOT crank or manually rotate the engine while the distributor is out. The rest of the job is removing nuts or bolt and wires in order to pull the distributor out. NOTE: When pulling out and when re-installing the distributor, you will have to rotate it somewhat - just follow the "feel" as you go. PS: You don't want to forget the order of the plug wires to the distributor - it might be a good idea to tape and mark the wires as you pull them. You also want to observe which direction the rotor is pointing before you remove the distributor (an added precaution).
you can get the 2.5 liter and it should line up as long as you get the same year engine to line up on the tranmission.
The timing marks are on the lower timing belt sprocket on the main crank. It's a small notch you can match it with the pointer on the oil pump casing. The top mark for a 3e engine is on cam sprocket in the 12 o'clock position. It has a hole you can look through to see the notch.
The spelling "synch" is slang for "synchronize" (match in timing).
it might as long as the engine the transmission was originally mounted to wasnt a 2.5 ltr or 2.8. the bell houseing want match from these two engines .a 4.3 ltr transmission might match up to a full size chevy truck .especally if you are matching the trans to a 305,350 motors.