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How do you push the piston back in the front brake caliper on a Saab 900?
Wiki User
∙ 16y ago
There are several different front brake calipers for the Saab 900 depending on the year. The first is from 1979-1987 and is the same as that on the Saab 99 beginning in 1975. You need a special tool to rotate the caliper piston back into place because the front caliper also acts as the parking brake. From 1988 thru 1993, the front calipers on the Classic 900 are the same as those on the Saab 9000. The NG 900 has a completely different brake caliper setup beginning with the 1994 model.
Wiki User
∙ 16y ago
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Saab 93 2006 how to retract rear brake caliper?
us Cclamp to retract caliper leave old brake pad in place put clamp over caliper with 1 end on brake pad and the other over caliper back start to tighten very simple.
What size external torx socket fits 2004 Saab 9-3 rear brake caliper?
T-55
How do you change the rear brake pads on 98 Mazda 626?
Same as the front except don't try to compress the caliper. remove the cap that is in back and loosen with an Allen wrenchAfter you've installed the pads and put the caliper back on, retighten that screw in the back of the caliper with the Allen wrench until it is tight again, then back it off a quarter turn. This is to readjust the brakes. If you don;t do this the brakes will be really mushy.AddendumThere is no Allen key or bolt to undo (unlike a Saab 9000). Instead, when the pads have been removed, you need to turn the caliper piston to retract it.Use a pair of pliers direct on the piston and turn clockwise to retract. This works!
How to replace rear brake pads on a Saab 9-3 2004 model year?
remove spring clip of the front 7mm Allen key socket for sliders BUT a special tool is required a rear brake piston wind back tool with saab/vauxhall attachment a easy job with the right tool clockwise rotation
How compress rear brake calipers of 1990 SAAB 900?
Very simple buddy, You CAN NOT use the regular method of just pushing the piston back in the caliper. DO NOT TRY you will break your tool!. You must apply the caliper spreader but do not over do the pressure you apply. then take a 14mm wrench or socket and remove the bolt in the back. There is something inside that takes an Allen key to turn. find one that fits and loosen that while tightening the brake spreader, and there you go it should move back into the caliper and if it does not then your caliper needs to be replaced because it is froze.
What can you tell you about Saab rear caliper replacement should you try it?
It really depends on the year and model as the braking systems are different on different models, and sometimes change over the course of the model. However, since Saabs are Front Wheel Drive, a rear caliper is easier to replace than the fronts. Remove the brake line and parking brake cable (if there is one). Remove the old caliper and install the new one. Re-install the brake line and parking brake pieces. Bleed the brakes.
How do you change the brake pads on 1997 Saab 900se turbo?
Take off the brake calipers, but let the brake line be mounted. Attach the caliper to a string so that it does not hang by the brake hose. Take out the old brake pads. Compress the pistons together. You may need a special Saab tool for this. Apply some copper paste or similar grease to the sides of the caliper and mount the new brake pads. Check that everything runs smoothly before mounting everything back together.
How do you change the brake pads on the Saab 93?
Replacing SAAB 9.3 rear brake pads (backing off the caliper piston without requiring use of special tools or re-bleeding the brake system):Note: SAAB 9.3's DO NOT have an hydraulic actuating piston adjusting screw on the back side of the rear brake caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly as the earlier SAAB 900's do.Assuming that the portion of the procedure involving safely raising and placing the vehicle on jackstands, removing the tire/wheel and removing the rear brake caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly from the rear brake caliper/pad carrier bracket went OK, the interesting part then becomes backing off the caliper assembly's hydraulic actuating piston (sometimes referred to as winding the piston in) to provide the additional clearance necessary to permit the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly to then be able to accommodate the new (and therefore thicker) brake pads. It requires that the hydraulic actuating piston be rotated to the right (clockwise) while at the same time being pressed inward. SAAB service garages use a special tool to accomplish this but it can also be accomplished in your home garage with everyday tools as follows:- use the tips of a pair of heavy needle nosed pliers (or end prong snap ring pliers or a 'U' bent heavy nail's shank clamped in long nose Vice-Grip plier jaws) to engage the two holes on the face of the hydraulic actuating piston to twist the hydraulic piston to the right a few turns until it turns somewhat more freely within its rubber dust seal (lubricating around the edges of the dust seal where it meets the face of the hydraulic piston with brake fluid helps).- place a piece of 3/16" clear tubing over the the nipple of the brake bleeder valve after removing its dust cover and OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE keeping the clear tubing pointing upward (important to keep air from possibly entering the hydraulic assembly; a small amount of brake fluid will come out but no air should be allowed to enter)- apply an 8 inch 'C' clamp which has a ball jointed (hopefully lubricated) pad at the end of the clamp's jack screw such that the clamp's ball jointed pad rests centered on the face of the hydraulic actuating piston and the clamp's fixed pad rests on the back side of the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly. Tighten the 'C' clamp enough so that the clamp will stay in place on its own and then give it another 1/4 turn on the jack screw (do not over tighten it as it would cause damage) .- now using a pair of channel lock pliers, clamp them firmly around the outer perimeter of the 'C' clamp's ball jointed clamp pad which is resting in contact with the face of the hydraulic actuating piston and turn it 1/4 turn to the right, such that THE PAD AND PISTON ROTATE TOGETHER. If the pad skids on ther face of the piston instead of turning together with it, include a small piece of sandpaper or a knurled (bicycle axle type) washer between the 'C' clamp's pad and the face of the hydraulic actuating piston to improve the grip. The piston MUST turn while being forced inward.- notice that the 'C' clamp becomes a bit looser as the hydraulic actuating piston retracts slightly with the 1/4 turn so re-tighten the 'C' clamp with a 1/4 turn of its jack screw after each 1/4 turn of the hydraulic actuating piston, repeating this operation until the hydraulic actuating piston has been backed off sufficiently to provide the caliper / hydraulic actuating piston assembly adequate clearance to accommodate the total thickness of the new thicker brake pads and the brake rotor.- reassemble the caliper/hydraulic actuating piston assembly over the brake rotor with the new rear brake pads in place in the caliper / brake pad carrier bracket and refasten it onto the caliper carrier bracket (with its two Allen head bolts - applying a thin layer of grease to the shanks of the bolts and blue loc-tite reversible thread locker to the threads - replace the dust covers over these two bolts when fully tightened / torqued).- CLOSE THE BLEEDER VALVE (obviously a most important item) and dry it and its surrounding area off completely.- Start the engine to power up the hydraulic brake booster and pump the brakes firmly several times which will cause the caliper assembly's hydraulic actuating piston to self adjust the caliper's hydraulic actuating piston into proper relationship with the brake rotor.- Re-check the bleeder valve to be absolutely sure it had been properly closed and that no brake fluid had issued when pumping the brakes in the step above and replace its dust cover.- Open the cap on the on the master cylinder's brake fluid reservoir (under hood on the driver side firewall) and replenish any lost brake fluid (using only type DOT 4brake fluid - do not allow any dirt to enter the master cylinder's reservoir)- Test the hand brake and test drive the vehicle with several hard stops before considering the newly replaced rear brake pad job complete and the vehicle ready to be safely returned to service.- This is a safety related procedure so please do the work with great care.
How do you replace a front indicator bulb in a Saab 9 3?
How do you replace a front indicator bulb in a Saab 93
How do you compress rear piston on a 88 Saab 900?
Beginning with MY 1988, the 900s had the same brakes as the 9000s. The rear brake piston must be turned in with a special wrench, not compressed as in earlier 900s.According to the manual (you do have a manual, don't you!) you need to remove the threaded screw plug covering the adjusting screw. The piston adjusting screw requires a 4mm Allen head wrench.
How do I replace the front strut on 1999 Saab 9-3?
how do i replace the front strut on 1999 Saab 9-3
Is a 1999 Saab front or rear wheel drive?
Front.
