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big hammer
First you need to remove the trim bezel around the handle on the outside of the tailgate. Then remove the three bolts on the inside of the tailgate,that hold the handle in place. Next remove the latching mechanism rods from the handle,and remove the handle from the tailgate.
You have to remove the the tailgate trim to access the bulb.
Just take it to a shop. Nobody gives a sh*t.
The 2003 VW front door threshold trim is held in place with for retaining screws. Remove the retaining screws and the threshold trim will come off.
Try these instructions: http://www.humanspeakers.comaudidoors-89.htm?
2 torix screws in the handle wells, then pull, it is clipped into holes if you do this carefully the clips will not break
The basic piece is the same but there will be different trim pieces attached that you will need to remove.
You need to remove the entire trim panel and glass run. The belt molding has rivets that hold it in place.
You have to take off the wiper arm and then take the nut off of the post that the arm attaches to. On the inside of the van take the trim panel off of the tailgate,then you can get at the bolts that hold the wiper motor onto the tailgate.
Try eBay and look for "Bumper Trim" . I bought mine from Greenfield Dodge on eBay
according to the book: first take off the lower tailgate trim, then take off the upper tailgate trim, then you can take the high level brake light unit off by undoing a bolt and sliding it to one side. Once it is off the bulbs just pull out apparently; they're 12v 2.3w There may be short cuts to avoid taking the whole tailgate trim off; I'll find out when I try it myself in a few days time :-) <time passes> There's no shortcut, you have to take off both trims, but it wasn't really that hard.