Have an ASE certified technician in an EPA certified service shop do it. This task involves recovery and storage of the refrigerant in the system - purging the system in a manner which releases it into the atmosphere is illegal under federal law. Then the accumulator can be removed. If you remove the accumulator, you'll need to replace it.
To be able to remove the hose off of the accumulator, you need a special quick disconnect tool to remove the hose off of the accumulator. Can be found at your local parts store. Its gonna be big in diameter. Might want to get a assortment of sizes ranging from 1 inch on up in size.
You will have to disconnect the liquid line and the accumulator from the evaporator tubes in order to remove the heater core.....
It is funny because I just did this last night. On the side of the accumulator that goes to the hose there is a nut that turns. If your accumulator screws right onto the coil at the firewall, you have to turn the whole accumulator as there is not an actual nut to turn. There are two nuts and a bolt to remove the brace. Make sure to disconnect your battery first as you will come close to the fuse block on the fire wall. Hope this helps.
Check the check valve located at the inlet of the fuel pump for leaks. It sounds like the fuel accumulator has failed. get under car , remove fuel pukp and accumulator assembly. Remove fuel accumulator, drain unit. Shake unit, if it has fuel inside it has an internal leak and must be replaced. The engine heatsoak causes fuel to boil, the accumulator maintains pressure to prevent this issue.
Remove the connector nearest the firewall. You will need a special plastic tool to slip around the flange in front of the accumulator and unlock the spring clamp. To replace, reverse the process.
A mechanical, or electrical accumulator???
Accumulator is what the British call a capacitor.
Behind right front fender behind headlight. Access from under neath. Remove plastic shield, and there it is.
The Transmission: Keep an eye on your oil level, as it can get low on you real quick, especially on long hi speed highway trips. There are ways to remedy this. If equipped with an AT, your rodeo has a 4L30E GM trans. You should change the ATF. BMac- for the ATF leak thing, check the accumulator piston cover on the pass side of the trans. VERY common on the 4L30E. Leaks? How about the accumulator cover? It's on the right side and it's round. Check this: Accumulator repair: before trying to remove the snap ring you need to push the accumulator cover in then remove the cover don
The size of the accumulator is the same,means 64bit.
As a rule, you'll need to purchase an appropriate re-seal kit for your accumulator. You will then need to disassemble your accumulator, clean everything and reassemble the accumulator with the new seals that came in your kit.
Typically, the clutch accumulator restricts the flow of fluid upon engaging the clutch so that you do not risk "dumping the clutch" and putting undue strain on your pressure plate and hydraulic clutch system. I typical performance mod on some cars is to bypass or delete the accumulator for faster shifts and a truer clutch "feel." Do not remove the accumulator without thorough research on how it will affect your particular make and model.