Well, I haven't worked on that particular car but I can give you general information on changing an alternator because I've done it twice on my 1991 Chevy Cavalier. Before you get dirty and take your car apart, test it to make sure the alternator is really bad. If you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage at the battery with the engine off. For a fully charged battery, it should be 12.6 volts or higher. Start the engine and check voltage again, now it should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts, indicating that the alternator is charging. Auto parts stores can also test the battery and alternator both on and off the car. First of all, to avoid any short circuits, disconnect the negative battery cable before working on any part of the electrical system. I once forgot to do this while working on my car. The alternator wire brushed against the mounting bracket and made some pretty good fireworks under the hood. SAFETY FIRST!!! Once the electricity is off, take off the drive belt. If your car uses regular V-belts, there will be a curved metal arm above the alternator. Loosen this bolt so you can move the alternator to take the tension off. Note: You might as well replace the belt too if it's in bad shape. If your car has a serpentine belt (one belt drives everything) there is a spring-loaded tensioner wheel. Most auto parts places sell a special tool for releasing the tension. If there is enough room, vise grips will work as well for serpentine belts. Once the belt is off, disconnect the electrical wiring from the back of the alternator. There will usually be a connector plug that snaps in as well as the "battery" wire, a red wire secured to a post on the back marked "B+". Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the mounting bolts that hold the alternator on (usually two or three bolts), and remove the alternator from the mounting bracket (Don't lose the bolts!!!). Save the old alternator, odds are you will need it to return as a core to get your core fee back when you buy the new alternator. When you buy the new alternator, you will need to tell the parts guy what make, year, model, and motor size when you buy the replacement unit. Installation is simply a reverse of removal.
on some late 80's honda's you have to remove the splash pan and the left side cv axle to get it out.
Read Me First!!!! I have just completed the changind of an alternator on a 1987 Honda Accord. I did NOT remove the front left axel! That is the good news. The bad news is i did some grinding around one of the engine mounts(harmless, I assure you) The car was designed where is you have to remove the axil, but let me tell you, i explored that possibility and from what i read, i tried my way and it actually did work. If you have gotten to this point 1) Car is jacked up and you have located and loosened the alternator (if you are this far, you see what i mean) Its not coming out nomatter how you turn it, pull it.. i tried it all...believe me, its not happening.... If your this far...go get you a grinder and grind on the mount for a while. It will come out and it beats removing the axil and whatever goes along with that ie..grease spillage or ? If you know what you are doing than go ahead, odds are you are not reading this page anyway, but if your like me than take my advice..GRIND IT! ,,,It works
Check out Autozones website. They have the Chifton manuels for most cars on the site. It will point you in the right direction.
before you remove your alternator, try this; turn your car on, open the hood, disconnect a battery terminal; if the alternator is working fine, the car should keep on running, if the car turns off, then you know you should change the alternator, I tell you this because I changed the alternator twice before I found the problem on my car.
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