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If you're just replacing the booster, you don't need to un-do the brake lines to the master cylinder. You need to un-bolt the master cylinder from the brake booster (2 nuts) and pull the master cylinder forward . Be very careful not to crimp the metal brake lines...just enough to clear the threaded studs.

Remove the vacuum line from the booster. I suggest you replace this vacuum line while you have the chance. The tubing on these lines become very brittle because of the engine's heat...and with a new booster, the system will be more efficient and probably stress out the existing line. Besides, you'll probably break it anyway because they are so brittle.

Here comes the fun part. If you don't have at least a 12" 3/8" drive extention, I suggest you get one. I believe the nuts you'll be removing are 13mm. There are 4 of them. You'll need to remove the bottom dash cover underneath the steering wheel to have access underneath the dash panel. Follow the steering wheel shaft to the fire wall. Directly above that you'll see where the brake pedal attaches to the brake booster. Disconnect the pedal from the booster. Then remove the 4 13mm nuts that attach to the brake booster.

Remove the booster...clean off the area before putting it back together....I believe there's a o-ring seal that should be replaced too. Be careful when taking the booster off...you don't want to snag one of those metal brake lines. Slide the new booster back into the holes and reverse the procedure.

If you have more than 50,000 miles on the brake fluid, you should replace it. That helps maintain the integrity of the brake seals...this stuff is like any other oil and breaks down. The new booster will be putting more pressure on your braking system.

Good luck.

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Q: How do you remove brake booster from Mercedes 380sl?
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