How do you remove rear door panel - Buick lacrosse?

Answer 1

Note: this car has door-mounted side-impact sensors, so it may be wise to remove the battery ground wire before beginning. This may not be entirely necessary, but I thought it worthwhile in light of the cost of airbags...

On an '08 Lacrosse, the door is fastened by three bolts (2 10mm or #27 torx) in the door pull pocket, and one bolt underneath the plastic liner behind the door handle. So, you first take the rubber bottom out of the door pull (hand grip pocket) and this exposes two bolts (the rubber lining comes right out, if you can just get something under it). The plastic liner will pop out from behind the door opening lever if you pull the handle out, and use a screwdriver to pry the end closest to the hinge of the handle. With the remaining screw removed, the door panel is now held by the snap-in clips and the ridge at the top of the door. It can be removed by hand, but some type of plastic wedge or prying instrument helps to pop the retainers loose without damaging the door's painted surfaces. Once the first one pops loose, the rest are easy to remove (they come loose with an almost violent release). When all retainers are loose from their holes in the door, the panel can be lifted up (to free it from the ridge at the top) and will be free of the door once the electrical connector and inner door handle cable is removed. The door handle cable is removed with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Using the pliers to press inwardly on both tabs, the cable can simply be pulled out of the door handle assembly (the inner cable will still be attached). With the cable assembly loose, swing it away from the panel, and the inner cable will come free through the slot in the top of the handle (way easier than it sounds) Last, the electrical connector is removed (it may be easier to pop the entire switch from the panel, as it is only held by two tabs on the panel).

There are several layers of waterproofing and insulation that need to be considered now, as careless removal can easily damage them. I advise that the insulation be removed with the panel, and that the waterproof liner that is glued to the door be allowed to remain with the door for the time being (the two liners seem to be held together with something like velcro). Once the door panel is completely free of the door, the waterproof layer can be carefully removed with a single-edged razor blade (carefully, duh). Pull gently on the liner while sawing the glue strip, and the two will separate without damage. Not only will your liner be still intact and waterproof, but the snot-like glue strip will very likely still adhere when it is time to reassemble the panel. If the waterproof liner tears in the removal process, try to repair it before reassembly to retain its waterproofing abilities (aluminum tape seemed to work well for me--something more waterproof than masking tape in any case).

Now, with the panel, insulation, and liner removed, it's time to do whatever it is that made you take the panel off in the first place. If it's to replace the power door lock assembly, here are the steps: Begin my unclasping the plastic fastener that attaches the outer door handle rod to the lock/latch assembly. It's on the outer part of the latch, and can be located by feel by pulling the outer door handle. If you've got a replacement lock assembly, observe how this fastener works. The threaded rod from the outer door handle locks in place with a hinged plastic fastener--just pull on the side of the fastener, and it will release the rod (open side may be inner, but if that doesn't open, try the other side). Next the three #27 torx screws on the rear outside of the door must be removed. Also, remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the rear window guide and remove the guide. It may seem unnecessary, but the guide will be in the way when it is time to remove the manual door lock rod. With this done, the latch assembly may be moved enough to release it from the manual lock rod and the electrical connector. First release the lock rod from the swivel lock that holds it to the forward pivot and then unsnap it from the sliding retainer on the side (just pops out). Remove the rubber grommet (seal) from the door that the manual lock rod goes through. This allows enough flexibility to unhook the s-shaped rod from the lock assembly. Turn the lock 90 degrees while wiggling the manual lock rod, and then back to release the rod completely. Now there is only the electrical connector to consider. There will be a purple or maybe maroon-colored plastic retainer that must be pulled directly up before the connector can be removed. You may be able to do this by hand, but a small screwdriver helps to move the connector lock upward. Once this is done, the connector will have driven itself outward and can be easily removed.

Reassembly is the reverse of above; just don't forget to reattach the manual door lock rod before attaching the lock/latch assembly to the door with the three torx screws (cannot be attached with the latch/lock screwed to the door). Use lock-tite medium strength on the three latch retaining bolts, as this is something you won't want falling off while in use. Reattach the outer door handle rod once the lock/latch assembly is firmly attached to the door as this will correctly locate the rod in the plastic hinged retainer (snap shut). Another reminder, do replace the window guide before replacing the panel or opening the window. If you haven't already done so, attach the electrical connector and push firmly down on the plastic locking retainer. This might be a good time to test locking and door latching, before the panel is replaced (will need to replace battery ground if removed).

Now, replace the waterproof liner to the pre-existing snot/glue-line (please pardon the term, but when you experience the substance, you'll know why I refer to it as such), and reinstall the door panel electrical connector (or switch assembly) and the inner door latch cable (first, place the end in its hole while the cable lined up with the slot). Pull the outer cable around to its hole, and snap it back into place.

Now, with the manual lock-pull back in its opening in the door panel, lift the panel to start it back into its groove at the top of the door and lower into place. You'll know you're close when the bolt holes line up in the door pocket and inner door latch assembly, There are several large plastic locator tabs on the door panel, and these should go easily into their place. If not, adjust slightly to allow proper reassembly. When all this is so, pop the door panel clips back into place by pushing or pounding lightly on the panel. If all goes well, they should pop back in place and lock the door panel into the proper position. Replace the three bolts and covers and you're done!