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You will need an 8 foot breaker bar and a chain wrench to break the bolt loose. Secure the wrench with the breaker bar and pull down hard.
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How do you change a timing belt on a 1999 acura 2.3?
1) Be sure to acquire the anti-theft code for the radio and the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons. 2) Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3) Remove the left wheel-well splash shield. 4) Rotate the crankshaft pulley so that the No. 1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of its compression stroke. 5) Loosen the power steering pump's adjusting bolt, locknut and mounting nut; then, remove the pump's belt. 6) Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt, locknut and mounting nut; then, remove the alternator belt. 7) Remove the alternator terminal and connector. 8) To remove the engine's side mount, located at the front of the engine, perform the following procedure: Using a floor jack, position a cushion between the jack and the oil pan. Raise the engine slightly to take the weight off of the side mount. Remove the side mount-to-engine bolts, the side mount-to-chassis bolts and the side mount. 9) Remove the dipstick and the dipstick tube-to-engine bolt; then, pull the tube from its O-ring mount. 10) Remove the cylinder head cover. 11) Remove the crankshaft pulley by performing the following procedure: Using the Holder Handle and the 50mm Offset Holder Attachment tool 07MAB-PY3010A and a 19mm socket, secure the crankshaft pulley and remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Remove the washer and pull the crankshaft pulley from the engine. 12) From the lower timing belt cover, remove the rubber seal concealing the adjusting nut. 13) 13) Remove the upper timing belt cover-to-engine bolts and the cover. 14) Loosen the adjusting nut 2/3-1 turn. Push the tensioner to relieve the tension from the timing belt and the balancer belt; then, retighten the adjusting nut. 15) Remove the balancer and the timing belts. 16) Clean the upper and lower timing belt covers. 17) Remove the balancer belt drive pulley from the crankshaft. Position the timing belt pulley so the No. 1 piston is at TDC of its compression stroke. Align the mark on the pulley (near keyway) with the pointer mark on the oil pump. 18) Adjust the camshaft pulley so that the No. 1 piston is the TDC of the compression stroke. 19) Align the TDC marks on the pulley with the upper surface of the back cover and the "UP" mark should be facing upward. 20) Install the timing belt in the following sequence: Crankshaft pulley sprocket. Adjusting pulley. Water pump pulley. Camshaft pulley. 21) Loosen and retighten the adjusting nut to tension the timing belt. 22) Install the balancer belt drive pulley and the lower timing belt cover. 23) Install the crankshaft pulley and finger-tighten the bolt and washer. Using the Holder Handle and the 50mm Offset Holder Attachment tool 07MAB-PY3010A and a 19mm socket with a torque wrench, tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). 24) Rotate the crankshaft pulley about 5-6 turns counterclockwise to position the timing belt on the pulleys. 25) To adjust the timing belt tension, perform the following procedure: Make sure that the No. 1 piston is at TDC of its compression stroke. Loosen the adjusting nut 2/3-1 turn. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise three teeth on the camshaft pulley. Tighten the adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm). 26) Re-tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). 27) Make sure the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys are at TDC. 28) Remove the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt lower cover. 29) Install a 6 x 1.0mm bolt to lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place. 30) Loosen the adjusting nut 2/3-1 turn and verify that the balancer belt adjuster moves freely. 31) Position the tensioner to remove tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the adjusting nut. 32) Align the rear balancer shaft pulley by performing the following procedure: Using a 6 x 100mm bolt, scribe a line 2.9 in. (74mm) from the end of the bolt. Insert the bolt into the maintenance hole to the scribed line. Align the groove on the front balancer shaft pulley with the pointer on the oil pump housing. 33) Install the balancer belt. Loosen the adjuster nut 2/3-1 turn to place tension on the balancer belt. 34) Remove the 6 x 100mm bolt from the rear balancer shaft and install the 12mm sealing bolt. 35) Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). 36) Rotate the crankshaft pulley 1 turn counterclockwise and tighten the adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm). 37) Remove the 6 x 1.0mm bolt from the timing belt adjuster arm. 38) Remove the crankshaft pulley and install the lower timing belt cover. 39) Install the rubber seal over the adjusting nut. 40) Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm). 41) To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. Adjust the tension of the drive belts.
When was Sally Rodeo born?
Sally Rodeo was born on March 22, 1984, in USA.
How do you change a 1995 ford escort timing belt?
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Remove the accessory drive belt. 3. Remove the drivebelt tensioner center bolt and remove the tensioner. 4. Remove the timing belt cover. It is necessary to remove the engine mount to get the cover out. Support the engine under the oil pan with a jack and a block of wood. 5. Use a socket and a breaker bar on the crankshaft damper bolt. 6. Rotate the engine clockwise until the timing mark on the camshaft pulley is aligned with the one on the cylinder head and the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the one on the cylinder head and the crankshaft pulley mark is aligned with the TDC mark on the oil pump housing. 7. Loosen the belt tensioner bolt, pry the tensioner to one side and retighten the bolt to hold the tensioner in position. 8. Remove the spark plugs. 9. Jack up the front of the car and support it on jack stands. Then remove the splash shield from the passenger side of the vehicle. 10. Remove the crankshaft damper bolt. 11. Remove the timing belt. 12. When replacing the timing belt make sure you get the same type of belt that came off of the vehicle. Rounded and square teeth are used in production. Replace the belt with the type of teeth that were on the old belt. Installation. 1. Starting at the crankshaft, install a new belt in a counterclockwise direction over the pulleys. Be sure to keep the belt span from the crankshaft to the camshaft tight while installing it over the remaining pulleys. 2. Loosen the belt tension attatching bolts so the tensioner snaps into place against the belt. 3. Install the crankshaft damper and bolt and tighten it to 77 ft ./lbs. 4. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions clockwise and stop on the second revolution at the point where the crankshaft sprocket returns to the TDC position. Verify that the camshaft sprocket is at the TDC position. If it isn't the belt has jumped a tooth and the installation procedure will have to be done over again. 5. Tighten the tensioner attatching bolt to 17-22 ft./lbs. 6. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal steps.
What is the dimensions of the crankshaft bolt on a Ford Aspire?
22 m
What are the release dates for The Adventures of Spin and Marty - 1955 The Big Rodeo 1-22?
The Adventures of Spin and Marty - 1955 The Big Rodeo 1-22 was released on: USA: 6 December 1955
What kind of mileage does a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo get?
I only get 17 overall and 22 on the freeway. about 22- 27 mpg highway
How do you change a timing belt on a Kia Rio Cinco 1.5 ltr?
Removal for 1.6L engines :REMOVAL 1. Disconnect negative battery cable.2. Loosen power steering lock bolts and nuts accordingly and remove tension from power steering (P/S) and/or air conditioning(A/C) compressor drive belt.3. Remove P/S and/or A/C drive belt.4. Loosen generator mounting bolts and adjusting bolt.5. Remove generator bolts.6. Remove water pump pulley.7. Remove crankshaft pulley.8. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.9. Turn crankshaft so that timing mark ontiming belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate.Do not move camshaft or crankshaft once timing marks have been correctly positioned.11. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt.12. Protect timing belt with a rag.13. Remove tensioner pulley.14. Remove timing belt.Mark the direction of timing belt rotation (on the timing belt) for proper reinstallation.INSTALLATION 1. Install tensioner pulley.Replace tensioner spring whenever timing belt is replaced.2. Pull tensioner pulley to its furthest point and tighten lock bolt.3. Check that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.4. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate.If existing timing belt is being reused install belt in proper rotation direction marked prior to removal.5. Install timing belt onto timing belt pulley first, then idler pulley, exhaust camshaft pulley, intake camshaft pulley, and tensioner pulley in that order.6. Check that there is no looseness in the belt between idler pulley and exhaust camshaft pulley or between intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys.7. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt and allow tensioner spring to apply tension to timing belt.Do not add additional tension.8. Tighten tensioner pulley lock bolt to specified torque.Tightening torque:28~38 lb-ft (38~51 N·m, 3.9~5.2 kg-m)9. Rotate crankshaft two full revolutions (clockwise only) and align timing mark on timing belt pulley with timing mark on engine block.10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley are aligned with marks on seal plate.11. If they are not aligned, remove timing belt and start process from tensioner&;nbsp;installation.12. Measure timing belt deflection by applying moderate pressure midway between camshaft pulleys If deflection is not correct, repeat from tensioner installation.Deflection pressure:22 Ib. (98 N, 10 kg)Deflection:0.39~0.50 in. (11~13 mm)13. Install lower and upper timing belt covers in that order.Tightening torque:5.8~8.0 Ib-ft (7.9~10.7 N·m, 0.8~1.1 kg-m)14. Install timing belt guide plate and crankshaft pulley.Tightening torque:9.0~12.6 lb-ft (12.3~17.2 N·m, 1.3~1.8 kg-m)15. Install water pump pulley.Tightening torque:9.0~12.6 lb-ft (12.3~17.2 N·m, 1.3~1.8 kg-m)16. Install generator belt and adjust the tension.
How do you change a timing belt on a Isuzu axiom?
Disconnect battery ground cable.Remove air cleaner assembly.Remove radiator upper fan shroud from radiator.Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench then remove drive belt.Remove cooling fan assembly four nuts, then the cooling fan assembly.Remove cooling fan drive pulley assembly.Remove idle pulley assembly.Remove serpentine belt tensioner assembly.Remove power steering pump assembly.Remove crankshaft pulley assembly using J-8614-01 crankshaft holder, hold crankshaft pulley remove center bolt, then the pulley.Remove right side timing belt cover then left side timing belt cover.Remove lower timing belt coverRemove pusher. Caution: The pusher prevents air from entering the oil chamber. Its rod must always be facing upward.Remove timing belt. Caution:1 Do not bend or twist the belt, otherwise its core could be damaged. The belt should not tee bent et a radius less than 30 mm (1.1811 inch). 2 Do not allow oil or other chemical substances to come in contact with the belt. They will shorten the life. 3 Do not attempt to pry or stretch the belt with a screw driver or any other tool during installation. 4 Store timing belt in a cool and dark place. Never expose the belt direct sunlight or heat InstallationNote: For correct belt installation, letter on the belt must be able to be read as viewed from the front of the vehicle.Install timing belt.1 Align groove of crankshaft timing pulley (2) with mark on oil pump (1).Align the mark on the crankshaft timing pulley (3) with alignment mark (white dotted line) on the timing belt (4).Secure the belt with a double clip or equivalent clip. Note: When timing marks are aligned, No.2 piston will be on Top Dead Center.2 Align the alignment mark on the RH bank camshaft drive pulley (2) to the alignment mark of the cylinder head cover RH (3). The camshaft pulley alignment mark should also align with alignment mark on the cylinder head cover.It may require up to four revolutions of the camshaft pulley to achieve alignment of all marks.3 Align the alignment mark (white line) on the timing belt (1) with alignment mark on the RH bank camshaft drive pulley (2) (on the left side as viewed from the front of the vehicle) and put the timing belt on the camshaft drive pulley.Secure the belt with a double clip or equivalent clip. 4 Align the alignment mark on the LH bank camshaft drive pulley (2) to the alignment mark of the cylinder head cover LH (3). The camshaft pulley alignment mark should also align with alignment mark on the cylinder head cover.It may require up to four revolutions of the camshaft pulley to achieve alignment of all marks.5 Align the alignment mark (white line) on the timing belt (1) with the alignment mark on the LH bank camshaft drive pulley (2).When aligning the timing marks, use a wrench to turn the camshaft drive pulley, then set the timing mark between timing belt and camshaft drive pulley and put the timing belt on the camshaft drive pulley.Secure the belt with a double clip or equivalent clip. Note: It is recommended for easy installation the belt be secured with a double clip or equivalent clips after it is installed to each pulley.6 Install crankshaft pulley temporarily and tighten center bolt by hand (do not use a wrench).Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise to give some belt slack between the crankshaft timing pulley and the RH bank camshaft drive pulley.Install pusher and tighten bolt to the specified torque. Torque: 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m/18 ft. lbs.)1 Install the pusher while pushing the tension pulley to the belt. 2 Pull out pin from the pusher. Note: When reusing the pusher, press the pusher with approximately 100Kg to retract the rod, and insert a pin (1.4 mm (0.055 inch) piano wire).After release the push rod from the locking pin, the rod projection is approximate 5 mm (0.1969 inch).3 Remove double clips or equivalent clips from timing belt pulleys.Turn the crankshaft pulley by six turns and check for timing mark alignment.Install timing belt cover. Remove crankshaft pulley that was installed in step 1 item 5. Tighten bolts to the specified torque. Torque: 9 Nm (14 ft. lbs.)Install crankshaft pulley using J-8614-01, hold the crankshaft pulley and tighten center bolt to the specified torque. Torque: 167 Nm (123 ft. lbs.)Install fan pulley bracket and tighten fixing bolts to the specified torque. Torque: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.)Install power steering pump assembly and tighten to the specified torque. Torque: M8 bolt: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) M10 bolt: 46 Nm (34 ft. lbs.)Install cooling fan assembly and tighten bolts/nuts to the specified torque. Torque: 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) for fan pulley and fan bracket. Torque: 7.5 Nm (66.4 inch lbs.) for fan and clutch assembly.Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench, then install drive belt to normal position.Install radiator upper fan shroud.Install air cleaner assembly.
How to replace the timing belt on a 2008 Kia Rio?
Disconnect negative battery cable. 2. Loosen power steering lock bolts and nuts accordingly and remove tension from power steering (P/S) and/or air conditioning(A/C) compressor drive belt. 3. Remove P/S and/or A/C drive belt. 4. Loosen generator mounting bolts and adjusting bolt. 5. Remove generator bolts. 6. Remove water pump pulley. 7. Remove crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers. 9. Turn crankshaft so that timing mark ontiming belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine. 10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate. Do not move camshaft or crankshaft once timing marks have been correctly positioned. 11. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt. 12. Protect timing belt with a rag. 13. Remove tensioner pulley. 14. Remove timing belt. Mark the direction of timing belt rotation (on the timing belt) for proper reinstallation. INSTALLATION 1. Install tensioner pulley. Replace tensioner spring whenever timing belt is replaced. 2. Pull tensioner pulley to its furthest point and tighten lock bolt. 3. Check that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine. 4. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate. If existing timing belt is being reused install belt in proper rotation direction marked prior to removal. 5. Install timing belt onto timing belt pulley first, then idler pulley, exhaust camshaft pulley, intake camshaft pulley, and tensioner pulley in that order. 6. Check that there is no looseness in the belt between idler pulley and exhaust camshaft pulley or between intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys. 7. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt and allow tensioner spring to apply tension to timing belt. Do not add additional tension. 8. Tighten tensioner pulley lock bolt to specified torque. Tightening torque:28~38 lb-ft (38~51 N·m, 3.9~5.2 kg-m) 9. Rotate crankshaft two full revolutions (clockwise only) and align timing mark on timing belt pulley with timing mark on engine block. 10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley are aligned with marks on seal plate. 11. If they are not aligned, remove timing belt and start process from tensioner&;nbsp;installation. 12. Measure timing belt deflection by applying moderate pressure midway between camshaft pulleys If deflection is not correct, repeat from tensioner installation. Deflection pressure:22 Ib. (98 N, 10 kg)Deflection:0.39~0.50 in. (11~13 mm) 13. Install lower and upper timing belt covers in that order. Tightening torque:5.8~8.0 Ib-ft (7.9~10.7 N·m, 0.8~1.1 kg-m) 14. Install timing belt guide plate and crankshaft pulley. Tightening torque:9.0~12.6 lb-ft (12.3~17.2 N·m, 1.3~1.8 kg-m) 15. Install water pump pulley. Tightening torque:9.0~12.6 lb-ft (12.3~17.2 N·m, 1.3~1.8 kg-m) 16. Install generator belt and adjust the tension. 17. Install P/S and/or A/C drive belt and adjust the tension. 18. Connect negative battery cable. INSPECTION Never forcefully twist, turn inside out or bend timing belt. Do not allow oil or grease to come in contact with timing belt. 1. Replace timing belt if it is contaminated with oil or grease. 2. Check timing belt for uneven wear, fraying, peeling, cracking and hardening. Replace timing belt as necessary. 3. Bend timing belt into a "U" shape as shown in figure. Distance "A" must be at least 1.0 in (25 mm). 4. Inspect both idler pulley and tensioner pulley for uneven wear and smooth bearing operation. 5. Inspect camshaft pulleys and timing belt pulley for broken teeth or damage. Replace any component that shows damage, excessive wear, or that appears prone to a possible failure
How do you replace the timing belt on a '97 Toyota Tacoma?
Labor Times - hrs Remove & Install: Contour/Mystique 3.40 Cougar/Escort 2.70 Special Tools Camshaft alignment tool - No. 303-465 (T94P6256CH). Crankshaft timing pin - No. 303-574 (T97P6000A). Remove spark plugs to ease turing engine. Turn crankshaft in normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise stated). Do NOT turn crankshaft via camshaft or other sprockets. Observe all tightening torques. Removal: 1. Raise and support the front of vehicle. 2. Remove: Right hand front wheel. Engine lower splash guard - if fitted. Right hand inner fender lower splash guard. Accesory drive belt. NOTE: If the accesory belt is to be re-used, mark the direction of rptation on belt with chalk. Water pump pulley. Acessory drive belt tensioner. Speical Precautions: Disconnect battery ground cable. Do NOT turn crankshaft or camshaft with timing belt removed. 3. Loosen the crank shaft pulley bolt 1. 4. Turn crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC of compression stroke with notch and pointer aligned 2. 5. Remove: Crankshaft pulley bolt 1. Crankshaft pulley 3. NOTE: DO NOT turn the crankshaft when removing the crankshaft pulley. Timing belt lower cover 4. 6. Loosen bolts of left hand and right hand engine mounts to allow engine to move slightly. 7. Lower vehicle. 8. Move the coolant expansion tank aside (leave hoses connected). 9. Disconnect cruise control cable. 10. Support the engine using a jack. 11. Remove: Front engine mount. PAS pipe bracket. Upper timing belt cover 5. Front engine mount bracket 6. 12. Disconnect accelerator cable and cruise conrol cables from cylinder head cover. 13. Remove: Spark plugs cover. Spark plug wires. Cylinder head cover. 14. Install camshaft alignment tool No.303-465 (T94P6256CH) into slots at rear of camshafts 7. 15. Loosen the tensioner retaining bolt 8. 16. Using suitable Allen wrench, turn the tensioner clockwise to release tension from belt 9. 17.Undo the tenisoner retaining bolt four turns 8. 18. Unhook the tensioner bracket from the metal clip 10. 19. Remove plug from exhaust camshaft sprocket 11. 20. Using a wrench on hexagon to hold camshafts 12, loosen camshaft sprocket retaining bolts 13 & 14. Attention To Removal Step #20 is critical to proper installation! 21. Remove and discard timing belt. NOTE: DO NOT reinstall used belt. Timing belt must always be renewed once it had been loosened or removed. IMPORTANT: To maximize Timing Belt System performance...it is recommended that Timing Belt Tenionser(s) and Idler(s) be replaced at the same time as Timing Belts! Installation: NOTE: The lower guide pulley may not be fitted to some models a after 06/1999. 1. Ensure camshaft alignment tool installed correctly 7. NOTE: Valves for No.4 cylinder should be on 'overlap' (camshaft lobes facing inward). 2. Temporarily install crankshaft pulley 3. 3. Check that the notch and pointer are alligned 2. 4. Remove plug from cylinder block 15 and install crankshaft timing pin 16 No.303-574 (T97P6000A). 5. Adjust position of crankshaft until it rest against timing pin. NOTE: No.1 cylinder must be at TDC of compression stroke and timing marks aligned 2. 6. Remove crankshaft pulley. NOTE: Under normal circumstances, the variable valve timing system will not return to its original base position. Ensure adjustable exhaust camshaft sprocket is reset as follows: Ensure camshaft alignment tool installed 7. Lightly tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt 14, to prevent sprocket hub turning on camshaft. Turn the exhaust camshaft sprocket by hand fully counterclockwise. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt 14. Ensure the sprocket moves freely on the camshaft. Turn sprocket until hole and largelug of sprocket hub at top. 7. Type A: Ensure the tensioner bracket is unhooked from metal clip 10 and is at the 4 o'clock position 17. Align 6mm Allen wrench hole 18 with the 'U' shaped notch in the pointer 19. 8. Type B: Ensure the tensioner bracket is unhooked from metal clip 10. 9. Install the new timing belt in a counterclockwise direction starting at the crankshaft sprocket, ensure timing belt taut between sprocets on non-tensioned side. 10. Ensure crankshaft remains resting against timing pin 16 during the tensioning procedure. 11. Type A: Hook the tensioner bracket 17 into the metal clip 10. Position the 6mm Allen wrench hole 18 at the 4 o'clock position. Finger tighten the tensioner bolt 8. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise 20 until 'U' shaped notch in the pointer 19 aligned with mark on bracket 17. Hold the tensioner pulley in position. 12 Type B: Hook the tensioner bracket into the metal clip 10 and finger tighten the tensioner bolt 8. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise 21 until the tip of the pointer 22 aligned with the mark 23. Hold the tensioner pulley in position. 13. Torque the tensioner bolt 8 to 18.5 ft. lbs. 14. Remove Allen wrench. 15. Use a wrench on the hexagon of each camshaft to prevent camshafts from turing 12. 16. Torque the intake sprocket retaining bolt 13 to 50 ft. lbs. and exhaust sprocket retaining bolt 14 to 44 ft. lbs. 17. Remove the crankshaft timing pin 16 and camshaft alignment tool 7. 18. Hold exhaust camshaft using wrench on hexagon 12. 19. Torque the exhuast sprocket retaining bolt 14 to 89 ft. lbs. 20. Turn crankshaft slowly almost two turns clockwise. 21. Install crankshaft timing pin 16. 22. Turn crankshaft clockwise until it rests against timing pin. 23. Check that camshaft alignment tool fits smoothly into both camshaft slots 7. 24. If not, repeat installation and tensioning procedure. 25. Remove timing pin and camshaft alignment tool. 26. Install a new plug into exhaust camshaft sprocket 11 and torque to 27 ft. lbs. 27. Install plug 15 and torque to 18.5 ft. lbs. 28. Install components in reverse of removal. 29. Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt 1 to 85 ft. lbs. NOTE: If re-using the old accessory drive belt, observe direction of rotation markings. ATTENTION: Installation steps #6 and #16 through #24 are critical to proper installion!!
How do you change the timing belt on a 2001 V6 cylinder Santa Fe?
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/msg/9aa0f60e40c66910 The dealer will charge you $600 plus tax to change your timing belt. Is it worth 6 or 7 hours of your time to save $500? Well, the belt itself will cost you only $90 at the dealer (ask for a 10% discount on the part). (I don't recommend using an off-brand belt. Why skimp just to save $20, when you're putting in 6 hours of labor?) So if you'd gladly put in 6 hours of labor to "earn" $500, read on. I have a 2002 Santa Fe 2.7L 2WD, but any 2001-2006 2.7L Santa Fe engine should be pretty identical. Yesterday I replaced the timing belt. Took about 7 hours. One hour was figuring out how to get the crankshaft pulley off. It's not difficult - just a bit time-intensive to remove everything to get to the belt. If you have access to Chilton manuals or AllData, then you can get some pics to go with what I describe below. Here's the basics for changing a Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L timing belt: OVERALL: Everything is metric. You'll need a good metric socket set. In my opinion, the longer the socket wrench you have, the easier and quicker the job will go. You'll find most bolts are "stuck" and take a good amount of force to initially break loose. But with a long socket wrench, you don't have to push that hard to apply this force. Once the bolts initially break free, most of them can be unscrewed the rest of the way by hand. Seriously, having a long socket wrench will take an hour off the job. Also, a good air-driven impact wrench is a MUST for this job. You cannot complete the job without it (unless you have a special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley from rotating while unbolting it). 1. Remove the plastic engine cover. 5 or 6 bolts. 2. Remove the front passenger wheel. Put an extra jack stand underneath the car frame for safety. I actually dropped my vehicle on the rotor because the Hyundai Santa Fe's rear spare tire carrier bolt gets so rusty, it really shakes the car trying to unscrew it and get the spare tire out (and that's after two liberal dousings with WD-40) - the vibrations and shaking can cause the vehicle to fall off the wimpy car jack that comes with the vehicle. 3. Remove the plastic wheel well panel behind the front passenger wheel. It's held on by 3 or 4 bolts along the top of the panel. To see these bolts, you kinda have to get your head into the wheel well and look up at the top of the panel. Removing this panel gives you access to the front of the engine (which faces the passenger side of the vehicle). 4. Remove the serpentine accessory belt. Just take an extra-long socket wrench - the wrench's square fits in the end of the belt tensioner - and pull the tensioner clockwise to take tension off the belt, and then slip the belt off one of the pulleys. Easiest to do this coming through the wheel well, but could probably be done from above, too. The belt will not actually come completely off until you unbolt the tensioner. 5. Unbolt the serpentine belt tensioner. There are two long bolts that hold it on. Take the tensioner and serpentine belt off. You'll see that the tensioner covered a hole in the timing belt case, and through that hole you should now see a portion of the cogged timing belt. 6. Unbolt the power steering pump pulley. It's the top pulley in the middle. You'll need to stick something through one of the holes in the pulley to keep the pulley from turning as you unbolt it. I used a smaller socket wrench with a long socket on it, holding on to the socket wrench and sticking the socket through the pulley's hole, jamming the socket against the body of the power steering pump behind the pulley. Remove the nut and the pulley. 7. You may need to unbolt the cruise control module at this point in preparation for jacking the engine. I did as a precaution, but discovered that on the 2002 Santa Fe, I really didn't need to. However, I have read an internet post that pointed out that on their Santa Fe, failure to unbolt the cruise control module caused the cable to come uncrimped when the engine was jacked, and that caused the engine to race after everything was put back together. Unbolting the module prevents its cable from getting pulled too far when you jack the engine. 8. Place a block of wood on a hydraulic jack underneath the engine oil pan, and jack it up to support the front of the engine. ("Jack it up" here means to raise up the jack, not "mess it all up".) The oil pan is immediately below the front of the engine (just behind the pulleys). 9. Unbolt the front engine bracket and take it off. This is done from the top. One bolt on the vehicle frame side (on top of the wheel well) and three bolts and/or nuts on the engine side. 10. Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley. Easy to come off. No need to hold pulley from turning, because the bolt goes through to the engine. Be careful once you get the bolt off - basically you have this pulley sandwiched by two plates - make sure you don't lose the back plate and you know which way it goes back on the pulley. 11. Remove the other half of the engine bracket still attached to the engine. First, you'll need to remove the small bolt on this bracket that faces the front of the vehicle. This bolt holds on the engine oil dipstick tube. Then, you'll find another small bolt facing the passenger side near the top of the bracket - this bolt is impossible to see, but you'll be able to feel for it. Access this bolt from under the hood. Then return to the wheel well and remove three large bolts and the bracket will be free. Before you remove the crankshaft pulley, you'll need to make sure the timing belt is properly aligned. To do so, you must remove the top half of the timing belt cover next. 12. Remove top half of the timing belt cover, by removing three bolts around rear sprocket, three bolts around front sprocket, and one long bolt at the bottom of this cover. This cover only goes halfway down the engine, so you can get to all these bolts from the engine compartment. I believe they require a 10mm socket. 13. Once the top half of the cover is removed, you will want to locate the timing marks on the exposed sprockets. It's a little dot imprinted on the front of each sprocket. Best viewed looking under the hood from the passenger side. The dots need to be aligned with the timing marks on the engine case. The timing mark on the engine case for the left sprocket (towards the rear of the vehicle) is a little notch located at about 11:00, and the timing mark for the right sprocket (towards the front of the vehicle) is at about 1:00. 14. Once you've located the timing marks on the sprockets and the engine, put a long wrench on the crankshaft pulley center nut and rotate the pulley clockwise until you get the top sprocket timing marks in place. (The crankshaft pulley is the very bottom center pulley. You access it through the wheel well.) You'll notice that when you get the top timing marks in place, the crankshaft pulley timing mark will be more or less aligned with a protrusion on the timing belt cover (at about the 1:00 position). If the bottom pulley is not perfectly aligned with one of the marks, don't worry about it. The important thing is to have the top timing marks for both sprockets perfectly aligned. Once you remove the crankshaft pulley and bottom half of the pulley cover, you'll see that the crankshaft sprocket tooth is properly aligned. You'll also notice that you have to turn the crankshaft pulley two entire revolutions to get the top sprockets to turn a single revolution. They are geared exactly 2:1. 15. Soak the crankshaft pulley bolt with WD-40 where its shoulder meets the pulley. I found this to be important. 16. Use an air impact wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (counterclockwise). I found that the air impact wrench on maximum setting was enough to loosen the bolt without actually turning the crankshaft. It may take about half a minute to loosen up. If it doesn't want to come off, try some more WD-40 and let it sit awhile. If you try to use a socket wrench, you'll just end up turning the engine backwards. AN AIR IMPACT WRENCH IS A MUST TO DO THIS, unless you have a special tool to hold the crankshaft pulley still while turning its bolt counterclockwise. The crankshaft pulley bolt will come off along with a thick spacer. 17. Remove the crankshaft pulley. You'll probably need to wiggle it back and forth as you pull it straight off. The more you can wiggle it, the easier it is to come off. The pulley is "keyed" to the crankshaft with a pin (located now at about the 1:00 position). This pin will stay on the crankshaft, and will be what you use to make sure the crankshaft is aligned once you get the new timing belt on. 18. Remove the lower timing belt cover. 10mm socket is used to remove the 4 or so bolts holding it on (best accessed through wheel well). 19. Notice now that the crankshaft (where you pulled the crankshaft pulley off from) has its pin (the pin we mentioned in step 17) aligned with a timing mark on the engine. Take note of this alignment! You'll see the teeth on the crankshaft that drive the timing belt. One of these teeth is aligned with the pin, and therefore aligned with the mark on the engine. NOTE: Take stock of how taut the timing belt is at this point. This is what the belt feels like under tension. It's pretty tense, right? 20. Remove the timing belt auto-tensioner. It is the cylinder-looking thing up and to the left of the crankshaft. Two bolts hold it on. Unbolt these bolts, and tension on the timing belt is released. 21. After removing the timing belt auto-tensioner, use a large C- clamp to slowly compress the pin in the auto-tensioner all the way, until you can slip a pin or smooth end of an old drill bit in through the little hole on the top of the auto-tensioner. This hole locks the tensioner's pin in the compressed position. Before you put the pin in, cover the pin with WD-40, and spray a little WD-40 in the little hole on the top of the auto-tensioner too (front and back). The pin should go all the way through from the front, through the center pin, and through the back. Enough of the pin (or old drill bit) should be sticking out the front so you can later grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out). 22. Enough tension should have been released from the timing belt so you can now gently pull it off. CAUTION: Be very careful not to rotate the belt at this point as you are taking it off, or as you are putting the new belt on. The reason is because the left top sprocket has its springs in the compressed position (at the top of the hill, so to speak). If you rotate this left top sprocket even one tooth, its compressed energy will cause it to rotate about 8 teeth, taking it out of timing with the crankshaft and the right top sprocket. This is the voice of experience talking. CHECK: Check the idler and tensioner pulleys that they are in good condition, and turn freely with little to no play. Replace if needed. 23. Temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on (no need to put its bolt in), and rotate the crankshaft pulley by hand back (counter clockwise) about 5 degrees. Shouldn't be too hard to do, because the crankshaft is not in a position where it takes much force to move at this point. Pull the pulley back off and check where you are at. Keep doing this until you have moved the crankshaft by one tooth. In other words, you need to rotate the crankshaft so that instead of the crankshaft pin being aligned with the mark on the engine, the tooth to the right (clockwise) of that pin is aligned with the mark on the engine. WHY DO WE DO THIS? Because there will be a little bit of slack between the right top sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket when you install the new belt. You'll find that after taking up this slack, the crankshaft will be properly aligned with the top sprockets. But don't worry. We'll be double-checking to make sure we got it right. NOTE: The timing belt tensioner pulley is towards the left (towards rear of vehicle), and the idler pulley is towards the right (front of vehicle). 24. Put on the new timing belt in this order: First, put it on the crankshaft sprocket at the bottom. Next, from under the hood pull the timing belt snug against the idler pulley (don't pull hard - just enough to remove most of the slack), and wrap the belt counter clockwise around the right top sprocket (the sprocket towards the front of the vehicle). With the teeth of the belt engaged on the right top sprocket, pause to check the play in the belt between the sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket. Remember when you took stock of how taut the old belt was? The belt should not be this tight. But then, it shouldn't be so loose that it comes off the idler pulley. There should be just a little bit of slack, which will be taken up when you later on replace the crankshaft pulley. Continue wrapping the new timing belt around the water pump pulley (smack dab in the middle of the engine, between all 3 sprockets, and then back up around the left top sprocket (toward the rear of the vehicle). Make sure that there is AS LITTLE PLAY in the belt between the two top sprockets as possible. The belt should be nice and snug between these two. The belt should be pretty tight at this point. You should have just enough play left in the belt to muscle it over the tensioner pulley (which is currently not under tension). If that is so, you can be assured that your timing belt is probably properly installed. 25. Now we check the timing belt installation. DO NOT CHECK THE SPROCKET ALIGNMENT YET. FIRST WE HAVE TO ROTATE THE TIMING BELT CLOCKWISE TO DISTRIBUTE THE TENSION ON THE BELT PROPERLY. Bolt the tensioner pulley auto-tensioner back on (two bolts). In one quick movement, pull out the pin (or old drill bit) from the auto-tensioner with a pair of pliers. 26. Temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on, and screw in on with its center bolt. 27. With a long wrench on the crankshaft pulley center bolt, rotate this pulley two entire revolutions until the two top sprocket timing marks have made one entire revolution and are lined up once again with the timing marks on the engine. As you start to rotate the crankshaft pulley, you should see the auto-tensioner pin come out and return to its normal length. The entire timing belt should return to the tension you observed on the old belt before removing the auto-tensioner. If not, then you need to remove the auto-tensioner and check it. 28. Remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt with the air impact wrench, and remove the pulley. 29. CHECK THE ALIGNMENT CAREFULLY. ALL THREE SPROCKETS SHOULD NOW BE ALIGNED TO THEIR TIMING MARKS. If even one timing mark is off, you'll need to pull the belt back off and reinstall. It is easy to see if a timing mark is off by one tooth. Just look at the belt and the sprockets and observe the distance from one tooth to the next. If any one of the three timing marks is off by this amount or more, your timing is maligned. But if the marks are off only a smidgen (a small fraction of the distance between two adjacent teeth), then your timing is aligned. 30. IF YOUR TIMING BELT IS MISALIGNED, GO BACK TO STEP 20. Note that it is easier to align the crankshaft individually than the top sprockets, so if the top sprockets are in sync with each other but out of sync with the crankshaft, turn the crankshaft until the top sprockets are aligned with their timing marks, remove the belt, then temporarily put the crankshaft pulley back on and adjust it. NOTE: It is ok to turn the crankshaft back a few degrees if you need to. You may be able to do this by hand by just pushing the crankshaft pulley on the crankshaft (without its mounting bolt) and turning the pulley by hand. However, if you need to adjust the top sprockets, you'll probably need to turn the crankshaft in clockwise direction using a socket on its center bolt. However, if you need to go an entire revolution on one of the top sprockets, you'll need to do so with the timing belt installed, so the entire engine rotates more or less in sync. NOTE 2: After each time you rotate the timing belt via the crankshaft pulley's center mounting bolt, you'll need to remove the crankshaft pulley via the air impact wrench. 31. IF YOUR TIMING BELT IS NOW ALIGNED (all three timing marks on the sprockets are lined up with the three timing marks on the engine) , IT'S TIME TO PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER, in the reverse order of what you took it off. NOTES: When reinstalling the top half of the engine bracket (the one that attaches between engine and frame), you may need to jack the engine a little higher in order to get this bracket snug against the bottom half of the engine bracket. DO NOT RESTART YOUR ENGINE UNTIL YOU WORK YOUR WAY BACK PAST STEP 4. (But don't put the vehicle in drive until you work your way back past step 2.)
How many teeth does the crankshaft gear on a 91 geo storm gsi with a 1.6 l dohc engine have?
22
