Ok, there is a one bolt that holds in the disributor. it will be conected to a crows foot looking clamp. Take the bolt out and on Fords it more of a pain then just Chevy's. Chevy's just twist out while pulling. Fords are the same . but to put it back in you have to bump the motor until it falls in. Kind of a pain to set timming. But usually you hold it where the #1 spark plug is and it will fall into place. It's a two man operation.
Ok, there is a one bolt that holds in the disributor. it will be conected to a crows foot looking clamp. Take the bolt out and on Fords it more of a pain then just Chevy's. Chevy's just twist out while pulling. Fords are the same . but to put it back in you have to bump the motor until it falls in. Kind of a pain to set timming. But usually you hold it where the #1 spark plug is and it will fall into place. It's a two man operation. To make it super simple.
I THINK YOU MOST FIRST REMOVE THE GROUNDING CABLE(NEGATIVE CABLE) pUT THE ENGINE IN TOP DEAD CENTER AND PUT CHALK IN THE BLOCK TO DISTR. AND PULL A 12MM OR 13MM SOCKET OR WRENCH (1/2)OR(9/16)IF IT HAS INCH BOLTS IF THIS DOENT WORK GO TO WWW.AUTOZONE.COM AND LOOK FOR CAR REPAIR OR GO PEPBOYS AND BUY A BOOK FOR THIS CAR COSTS ABOUT LESS THAT 20 BUCKS I HOPE IS IS HELPFUL
I THINK YOU MOST FIRST REMOVE THE GROUNDING CABLE(NEGATIVE CABLE) pUT THE ENGINE IN TOP DEAD CENTER AND PUT CHALK IN THE BLOCK TO DISTR. AND PULL A 12MM OR 13MM SOCKET OR WRENCH (1/2)OR(9/16)IF IT HAS INCH BOLTS IF THIS DOENT WORK GO TO WWW.AUTOZONE.COM AND LOOK FOR CAR REPAIR OR GO PEPBOYS AND BUY A BOOK FOR THIS CAR COSTS ABOUT LESS THAT 20 BUCKS I HOPE IS IS HELPFUL
You have to drop the transmission or pull the engine. remove the flexplate and oil pan.
On the 250 cid engine the alternator lives on the passenger side front of the engine.
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I changed my starter motor on my 1984 B2000 Pickup. Has to be done from underneath. Raise the front end - use jackstands. Remove the negative battery terminal. The holding bolts on the starter are difficult to reach and slow to remove but,with patience, can be done. Space around the motor is tight but with persistance, you can snake it out. Good Luck.
This engine probably has hydraulic lifters and no adjustment is required.
Check the distributor "pickup" assembly. That will be the little assembly inside the distributor that is in close proximity to the star wheel. You may be able to remove the assembly and have it tested at your local auto parts retailer.
top of the engine. back of the engine next to the distributor..
Right behind the distributor on the engine block.
Drop the cradle & engine together
Top right of the distributor cap (if your facing the firewall), and the plug goes to the left (driver side) of the engine.
if it is a hei ignition there is a place on the distributor cap that says tach.
As long as is the same engine. I don't see why not. Its only one year apart.
Remove spark plug on #1 cylinder, rotate engine and use a screwdriver to feel when piston on TDC compression stroke. (All the way to top) Remove distributor cap and look at where rotor is pointing. That one. You can remove valve cover to tell compression stroke, both valves will be closed, otherwise you may be 180° off
Yes it is.
A 11/16 socket is needed to remove the 1984 Chevrolet pickup front axle hub assembly. The socket should be a five-point socket.
It is screewed into the top of the engine block right behind the distributor. It is hard to get to. Real trickey.
6 degrees before tdc with distributor vacuum line removed and plugged