How do you remove the ignition switch from a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero?

Answer 1

DISCLAIMER: This is being recreated from memory to the best of my ability a few weeks after conducting this process. Don't follow it blindly, pay attention and if something doesn't seem right, it might be wrong... but the overall process is reasonably accurate, or at least more so than I have found.

Estimated time: 3 hours for novice with tumbler replacement (at least an hour by itself), 1.5 hours for reasonably experienced mechanic who has completed this or similar procedures a few times.

I recently completed this on a 2001 Alero 4 door sedan, 3.4L V6. I used an aftermarket cylinder lock. We were getting occasional security lock-outs due to the bad sensor.

Step by step:

1. Disconnect cable from negative battery post.
2. Remove gearshift grip by removing the clip on the forward side of the grip. once the clip is removed, it is free to come off, but often the shaft is corroded, and it can take some serious pulling.
3. Remove the center console piece taking care to disconnect the switch at the rear and the gear indicator light connector.
4. Carefully pry the faceplate off the radio. There are two tabs on the top and two on each side.
5. Three bolts on radio, 2 on left, 1 on right. Remove all 3 and slide radio out as far as wiring permits and set aside. Do not disconnect wires from radio unless absolutely necessary (concerned there might be a security issue as I've experienced with other OEM radios).
6. Remove the shroud from around the steering wheel. The top portion is attached to the bottom and pops off with tabs. They can be brittle, so take care.
7. Remove the two screws in the top of the instrument cluster shroud.
8. Remove the four screws securing the instrument cluster.
9. The fit is tight, but if you pull the lower portion of the cluster out first (the cluster face will be pointing up instead of to the rear). Disconnect the harness from the top right as able and set cluster aside.
10. Remove the 3 screws securing the cylinder lock mounting bracket (accessed in the cluster and radio areas).
11. Disconnect large wires from assembly. Do not disconnect the pass-lock sensor wire with the cylinder installed. If you manage to get it out, you will damage it, and there's no real reason to remove it unless you want to detach the whole assembly from the car (I didn't see any reason to do so).
12. Insert key and turn to ON position. Locate the irregular hole in the plastic housing that holds the spring loaded retainer. Insert a screwdriver or similar tool to depress retainer. Keep depressed and slide cylinder out.

If you've been having turn signal relay issues, now is a good time to replace the hazard switch as that also houses the turn signal relay, but I found they aren't stocked regularly, and you'll need to pre-order it. When I replaced mine, there was only 1 available among all the parts stores in my down (suburb of Phoenix).

If you purchased a switch with keys, you're good to go. Installation is the opposite of removal. If you're like me, and didn't want to use a second key, it gets a little ugly as you have to match the tumblers position for position. If you go slow and take your time, it's not a big deal, but WRITE EVERYTHING DOWN. Disassembly of the cylinder and the tumblers is complex but obvious if you're careful and methodical.

Once the new switch is installed, you will have to train the ECU to the new pass-lock sensor. The process is well documented. Normally, it's three 10 minute reset procedures, but mine did it in one. Steps as follows:

1. Insert Key
2. Turn to ON position, wait a couple seconds.
3. Turn to START and crank. Car may fire and die. If car starts and continues running, you're lucky!
4. If it dies, return key to ON position until SECURITY light stops flashing then goes out (approximately 10 minutes).
5. Turn to OFF position
6. Repeat steps 2-5 up to three times

Good luck!