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remove the brake calipers and then remove the bolts holding the brake caliper bracket. once this is done the rotor will slide right off. It may need a good hit or two with a rubber mallet to loosen it up if its rusted.
Take off caliper bracket and heat up bracket housing around mounting bolts until they turn. Pull out and regrease with anti- seize, my have to replace rubber sleeves.
You can't remove it from rubber.
Remove the rubber protection, remove the electric connector, loosen the clip holding the bulb by pressing it and moving out of holding groove. Installation is reversal. Do not forget to put some of dielectric grease. Also never touch new bulbs.
Remove the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the junction of the carbs. Disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel filter to the fuel tank. Remove the fuel filter bracket. Keep track of the position of the fuel filter. Remove the fuel filter from the rubber holder. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. Remove the fuel pump from its holder bracket A large screwdriver may be necessary to pry pump away from the holder bracket. . Remove fuel pump assembly. Remove remaining hoses from fuel pump. Installation is reverse of removal.
Yes! This can easily be done with a rubber pipe coupling bought at home depot.
Fuel pump on EFI 4runners is located inside the fuel tank. Remove tank to access the pump. Remove 7 bolts then pull the pump bracket up and out of the tank. Remove 2 nuts and disconnect the wires at the fuel pump. Pull the pump out of the lower side of the bracket. Disconnect the pump from the fuel hose. Remove the rubber cushion and the clip. Disconnect the filter from the pump.....installation in reverse...
it has a bracket with a 10 mm bolt holding both hoses together if it is the 1 i am thinking of it has rubber hose that comes out of the heater core but they both go into a aluminum hose down the p/s fender well then they go back to rubber
romove the rubber hose connected to the air box. then remove the 4 Philips screws holding the box down and remove the ignition coil and a 10mm ground connector
First...get a Chilton or Haynes. The biggest problem with the Chevy intake is that the distributor mounts through it. You'll need to remove the distributor. First take off the dist cap and note where the rotor is pointing. You'll need this info later when putting it back together. Loosen the bolt holding the dist bracket down and slide the bracket back. Remove the distributor. Remove the carb and depending on how your alternator mounts, the alternator and bracket. Remove the intake bolts. Replace the gaskets for the intake... use RTV black for the two end seals instead of the cork or rubber crap they send with it. It'll last longer and seal better. Use your Chilton's to find the torque sequence and ft lbs.
Yes it does have plugs, wires and coil packs all located beneath the black plastic cover that runs north/south on the valve cover. You need to remove the intake plenum by loosening the clamp that hold the rubber intake tube attached to the inlet, the clamp that attaches to the silencer air box located on the top center of the firewall and the two medium sized vacuum hoses on the front (1) and the right (1) sides and remove the clips and connectors for the IAC valve and TPS sensor. Then you can remove the 3 throttle body bolts and gasket and the two bolts on the right side of the valve cover, then you should be able to remove the plenum. Next remove the two bolts holding the accelerator cable bracket and use a bunjee cord or rubber band to hold it out of your way. Then remove the six bolts holding the cover down and remove it to uncover the plugs and wires.
Take the plastic cover off on the inside of the door .There should be a Phillips screw holding it on. Then remove a piece of foam rubber. This should expose three 10 mm nuts holding the mirror on. remove mirror . Reverse to re install