It's definitely doable, but it's a bit more of a pain than it should be. Before you get started, you need to know that the fender liner is fastened directly to the washer reservoir with plastic push-in retainers. If you slide under the left front of the vehicle, you can easily see the bottom of the reservoir and the retainers holding the fender liner in place. These retainers are made to push in, but never come out - it may be possible to get them out without breaking them, but it seems unlikely to me. They probably cost less than a buck, so buy two of them when you by the replacement reservoir. If the parts guy can't find them in his catalog, you might try showing them to him.
Another important point is that the fluid reservoir actually needs to be removed from underneath the vehicle - there's a structural member in the way that makes it difficult if not impossible to pull it out through the hood opening. That would not be a big deal were it not for the fact that the fluid lines and electrical connectors approach the reservoir from the top. This means that the pump assemblies need to be removed from the reservoir *before* the reservoir can be dropped down and out of the engine compartment. It's doable, but it has to be done by feel because there just isn't enough room in there to see what you are doing. More on that later.
By the way - my Yukon XL has a rear wiper/washer, so it has two pump assemblies and two fluid lines. If you don't have a rear wiper, you will have one pump assembly and one fluid line.
So, on to the task at hand:
# Disconnect the battery cables and remove the support brace that runs diagonally over the top of the battery (I believe a 10mm socket will work). Lift the battery out and set it aside. # If the washer reservoir is not empty, siphon off all fluid now.
# Remove the 10mm screws holding the battery tray in place, and set the tray aside.
# The reservoir attaches to the front part of the truck frame with two 10mm screws. The upper screw is easily accessible from above - remove it.
# With a flashlight, locate the washer fluid lines. They run along the left hand side of the fender then down behind the washer reservoir to the pumps. You may be able to gently tilt the reservoir back and actually see the pump assemblies attached to the bottom front of the reservoir.
# Looking at your replacement reservoir, try to visualize how the pump assemblies attach. First, notice the rubber bushings at the bottom of the recession in the reservoir where the pumps fit. Directly above each bushing, at the top of the recession, is a channel which is molded into the reservoir itself. Each pump has a short intake nipple which pushes down into the rubber bushing. Each pump also has a vertical pin at its top that snaps into the channel at the top of the recession. To remove a pump assembly from the reservoir, you gently pop the top pin out of the channel by pulling the pump forward (away from the reservoir), then gently twist and wiggle the pump nipple up and out the rubber bushing. You will probably need to do this "blind", so it's a good idea to visualize the procedure first. # (Put on safety glasses now!) Slide under the front of the vehicle on your back. Locate and remove the lower 10mm mounting screw.
# At this point, the reservoir should be held in place only by the plastic retainers that attach it to the fender liner. You should be able to push the reservoir away from the front of the vehicle enough so you can reach up and feel the pump assemblies.
# Gently remove the pump assemblies as described above. Try to disturb the fluid lines as little as possible - they are somewhat flexible (at least mine were), but they have a reputation for breaking. # Locate and remove the electrical connector to the fluid level sensor.
# Remove the plastic retainers that attach the fender liner to the reservoir. You may need to clip them off from beneath, or cut them off from within the wheel well. Or, maybe you know the trick for removing them without breaking them ... # Taking care to not catch any of the pumps/tubes/wiring, pull the reservoir down and out of the engine compartment. # Holding the reservoir upright (important!), grab the the fluid level sensor and gently twist and wiggle it until it is free. If you forget to hold the reservoir upright, the float arm of the fluid sensor may articulate such that it catches on the rim of its mounting hole as you pull it out. If this happens, the float arm will probably snap off and remain inside the reservoir. You should be able to fish it out and snap it back into its cradle. # If your new reservoir did not come with rubber bushings for the pumps and sensor, remove the bushings from the old reservoir. My new reservoir came with the two small bushings that receive the pump intake nipples, but did not have the bushing that receives the fluid sensor.
# Gently push the fluid level sensor into its hole in the new reservoir. It is designed to fit the right way.
# Look at the top of the fat part of the two reservoirs and locate the holes through which one of the battery tray screws will go. If your old reservoir has a threaded metal clip for that screw to cling to, but your new reservoir doesn't, move the clip from the old one to the new one.
# Notice that the hole for one of the pump assemblies is higher than the other - this is the hole for the rear pump. The rear pump should be marked "Rear", and goes in this hole # Gently fit the new reservoir into position from beneath the vehicle. Take care not to catch any of the dangling pumps/lines/connectors on the reservoir as it passes by.
# Push the intake nipple of the front pump into the lower bushing, then snap its top pin into the reservoir channel. Repeat with the other pump. # Reconnect the wires to the fluid level sensor. # Replace the two 10mm mounting screws.
# Reattach the fender liner to the reservoir using the plastic retainer pins. # Replace the battery tray and attach it with the screws removed in Step 3. The two screws that are different from the others go in the angled surface that rests on the inside of the fender. # Replace the battery and connect it up.
# Replace the diagonal brace and tighten it down.
# Fill the reservoir with a gallon of washer fluid.
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