See if your local library has a professional shop manual to look at for free... dave
N1gger
Use a small gear puller
1998 Nissan Altima GXE has a timing chain. Check your model at: http://www.courtesyparts.com/watches-c-7738.html
the only true way repair the leaking oil pan it to remove the pan and change the gasket their is no quick fix for a leaking oil pan if you do it right the first time it wont bie you in the but latter
where is the fuse for the cigatette lighter
6-1/2
Call the dealer and find out!
where is the oxygen sensor in a 1998 Nissan altima 2.4gxe
It is located unter the intake manifold near the oil filter.
It's kinda a pain in the butt on this car, I know I did it today. First you have to remove the powersteering belt. There is a 12mm tensioner bolt behind the powersteering pump. Before you loosen that one though you have to get under the car and loosen the 14mm bolt in the bottom of the pump and a 12mm at the top of the pump. then you can loosen the tensioner and slid off the belt. Now you can get the alternator belt off. There is a 8mm tensioning bolt toward the front of the car, between the alternator and the air conditioner compressor. Loosen the 14mm bolt in the center of the idler pulley, and then loosen the 8mm tensioner bolt till the belt can be slipped off. This takes a great deal of patience and small hands are helpful too. I had to use a small wrench as there is no room for a ratchet. Reverse the process to install the new belt.
None i have found on line. Get a manual on your car. Not an easy job or one for a backyard mechanic.
You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library. I just changed the alternator on a '96 Sentra - day one involved removal of old alternator - passenger side fan and overflow tank had to be removed. I left the rad hose as-is. The used $75 CDN alternator from recycler was not exactly the same. After a few frustrating hours trying to get the "new" one in, I realized that the casting boss near the idler was about half an inch wider, therefore the original 14 mm/M10 bolt was about half an inch too short. I went to a fastener store, bought a 40 mm long M10 bolt and thought I was in business, until realizing that the same thicker boss was also contacting the threads of the tensioner rod. A few minutes of filing off some material off the bottom of the boss provided the clearance required to no longer contact the tensioner bolt. As well, the tensioner was stuck in place, making belt replacement impossible. The alternator had to be removed again, the tensioner pulley 14 mm bolt loosened so that the pulley could be slid in its slot. We put the belt back on, and tightened the 14 mm tensioner pulley bolt, then the 8 mm tensioner rod and then the 14 mm tensioner set screw bolt. Frustrating, yes, but mostly because the replacement alternator wasn't exactly the same, so double check before installing. It will likely still work, but may need some minor modification.