Remove the interior door. Here is a web site with a good description on the steps you will need. http://autorepair.about.com/od/otherodddiyjobs/l/aa092504a.htm After the interior door is removed it is pretty straight forward, just remove the nuts that attach the regulator to the door frame and attach the new one. It is helpful to have a second person to hold the window up while you are working.
REMOVE AND REPLACE SWITCH AND CRIMP THE CONNECTOR TO THE SWITCH.
I haven't done this, but I think that plastic trim piece in the corner of the window pops out to expose the fasteners that hold the mirror housing. A body shop can tell you how to replace the mirror and/or motor.
Remove the inside door window panel. Make sure the window is on the window track. Make sure the window linkage is not needing repair. Replace the window motor.
On Camry 99 it took me 20 mins to replace the right side. The drivers side take about the same time.
We had a 1996 Camry. The window activation constantly blew a fuse for the speedometer, dash lights, etc. My mechanic said over the phone that it was a wire short in the drivers door, and sure enough, that was it.
I need to replace my outside handle on the drivers door. Toyota told me to go on line to see a diagram. But, where? It is a 2000 camry.
You normally gain access to the bulb from inside the trunk.
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go to the website autorepair.about.com and they have the step-by-step instructions. good luck!
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For that you will have to remove the whole window mechanism. Then you will be able to replace the motor. When you assemble the mechanism make sure that you have set up position of the gears properly.
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well iam a retard you have take off the door panel to get to the motor but to replace the window switch get a flathead sd and stick it under the front of the switch holder and lift up
You can replace it. Or you get a plastic tank fix kit in AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts.
You replace it when it has failed.
The drivers window switch on the master switch energizes a solenoid for the express down feature of the drivers window. The solenoid deenergizes when the window bottoms out causing the thermal overload in the window motor to open. A spring in the solenoid is supposed to break the open circuit and provide power to the close circuit when deenergized. Sometimes the spring gets weak or the solenoid plunger is sticky preventing powering the close circuit. Removing the door panel and diaassembling the master switch is not a DIY. I have had success banging on the arm rest adjacent to the master switch to get the spring to make the close circuit. My guess is the rear window switch gets its power from the same movable contact as the drivers window switch.
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