How do you replace door lock actuator on 1991 ford f150?

Answer 1

All right, I just got through doing this; my hands are still greasy as I type. The Haynes repair manual does not cover this relatively simple process. I'm a novice (at best), so I have no idea what the correct terminology is for these things.

1. Roll up your window, and remove the door panel. If you can't figure out how to do that, you probably don't need to try and replace your actuator yourself.

2. Your actuator is down at the bottom on the latching side of the door in the hollow. It's a pain to get to. So, you might want to loosen the bolts on one of the window braces so you can push it to the side while you work. Also, loosen the brace that attaches to your armrest so you can get it out of the way as well. It's a tight fit, so you need all the room you can get.

3. You should have already purchased your new acuator. They are relatively inexpensive ($60 at Autozone). Also, you might want to pick up a kit with bolts and washers, etc. I had to use one 1/4" x 3/4" bolt with a nut and washer; I chose a bolt with a rounded edge that required a screwdriver to make it low profile. If you need it, you'll use this bolt in a minute.

4. Removing the old actuator was the hardest part for me. It was held in place by a rivet on the outside of the door below the latch. The rivet was loose, so I had to remove it. I ended up having to drill out the rivet to get it out. (If you can, try and get the actuator out by just pushing down. It's not bolted to anything, and will pop out of the bracket if you use enough force. If you can re-use your bracket that makes it alot easier. The rest of these instructions are written as if you had to use the new bracket.)

5. Once the rivet was out, the actuator will swing freely from a rod that connects to the actual door latch mechanism. Do some twisting and turning (the rod is bent so it won't slip off), and just fenangle that rod off. Now, the only thing connecting the actuator to the truck is the wires. Disconnect those and she's loose.

6. Next, connect the wires to your new actuator. I tested mine and when I hit the lock/unlock button, she just spun. Interesting.

7. The actuator sits in a little bracket. Rubber "nipples" on the side of the actuator allow the actuator to move in and out of the bracket, but only with some effort. There should be a similar bracket with your old actuator, and they are probably still attached. Don't attach your new actuator to the bracket yet. Rather, use the bolt (mentioned above) to attach the bracket to the inside of the door. Attach it in the same direction as the one you pulled off. That means that the "u-openings" where the bracket and actuator connect should be facing down.

8. Then, choose the rod that is the same length as your old one. There should be many options. All that matters is that it's the same length. Connect this to your actuator. Finangle that rod back into the actual latch mechanism (remember how you had to fenangle it off - do the opposite).

9. Almost done. Then, you'll have to slide the actuator into the bracket. You'll have to push down and come in from underneath the bracket (if you installed the bracket facing the correct direction). Then, pull up until the nippels pop into place in the bracket. My nipples were loose rubber that popped off once or twice, so I had to do this a few times.

10. Test your door. Hopefully everything is in working order. If it's not, I think you can adjust your actuator to different lengths so that it works just right. Mine was pretty much dead on right off the bat. I went ahead and lubed everything up while I was in there to keep the components slick.

That's how I did it, and I'm no mechanic (obviously). But, it seems to be working fine. I couldn't find any tips for this one online, so hopefully someone will get some benefits from my experience. The whole project took about two hours and cost me about $72, and that includes tax. Now, I can lock my door again, and maybe no one will be able to steal all of my Barry Manilow albums... again...