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If the dealer can't order them go to the wrecking yard.

I have now accomplished this repair. To extract the fuse/relay block from the LH front corner of the engine compartment, the master cylinder has to be moved aside. Its lines do not need to be disconnected. The block is secured by one screw at its front right corner. To get to this screw a universal 10mm socket is useful so that the washer bottle does not have to be moved aside. The block is unhooked from its retainer at its left rear corner. Lift the block up and to the right (of the vehicle). The lower cover of the fuse/relay block is released by pushing a small screwdriver into the slots on each side of the block. It is worked loose from the looms on its right side. The overheated socket has to be released. There is a pronged white plastic retainer that is slid to the right (of the vehicle) just enough to release the affected socket. Pull the socket out of the bottom of the block as much as the wire will allow. Unfold the twin lock from the wire insulation and bend the sharply wire back and forth until the socket breaks off the end of the wire. This minimizes the loss of wire length. Lightly scrape tarnish from the wire strands and crimp the new socket onto the wire with a twin lock crimping tool. Reinsert the socket up into the block and push the retainer back into place, making sure all sockets are properly located and retained. The socket I used was slightly different from the original. It has a spring retainer that is not used in this application. This retainer was bent in so that it did not function. The necessary tangs on the socket for the retainer are present. "Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly." The bottom cover of the fuse/relay block is a little hard to get in place but be careful and it will go.

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โˆ™ 2015-07-15 21:28:18
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Q: How do you replace one or more of the sockets in the fuse or relay block of a 98 Chevy Express 3500 5700 V8 where the fuel pump relay plugs in?
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