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Working from inside the car, pull the cloth back from behind the light housing to expose a bunch of wires and a plastic circuit board. Circuit board is held on by a couple finger clips. Squeeze clips, gently pull on board and the whole works will come out. It will look like a circuit board with light bulbs in various locations. Press and turn to free your burnt out bulb. Take the bulb with you when you get a new one. No tools necessary.

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Q: How do you replace rear lights in a 1997 VW Golf?
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