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This job can be very difficult so only attempt if you are very confident in your mechanical abilities. I am writing this as if you have experience(if you don't then don't even try this job!)If this is you then here we go. First of all a Hub Tamer(OTC) or Hub Shark(Ken Tool) will make this job a whole lot easier. So borrow or rent one and watch the videos available on you tube. If you don't have availability to one beware. You will be replacing alot more than just a bearing by the time you are done(especially if you live in the rust zone). To replace the bearing without a hub tool you will have to remove the entire lower control arm! That means taking off the lower shock bolt, the upper and lower ball joints(yes it has ball joints in the rear), the CV shaft, all of the brake components including the backing plate (this is done after you remove the center hub, the coil spring has to come out but after you dissasemble the rest it will come right out(It will NOT be under any pressure-the only nice thing Ford did to make it easier) and finally the control arm bushing. This will be very tricky if it is rusty( i torched it out and replaced it(cost another $60 but trust me its worth it. Make sure you buy the busing and all adjustment pieces). Before you remove all these things be sure to move the wheel speed sensor(where it goes into the wheel well opening remove plastic cap and unplug it there otherwise you might break the sensor by taking it out of the knuckle), the e-brake cable and the brake line or you will break one or all of these). Press in your new bearing. Then reassemble in reverse. The job calls for about 2.5 hours per side. Good luck with that. It took me about 45 minutes to get the bushing out. Like I said before, USE A HUB TAMER, I don't care if you have to beg borrow or steal one. You will save yourself a major headache! Oh yeah, don't be an idiot like me and forget to put the backing plate on before installing the center hub. Good luck and feel free to email me on how it went.

Alternate.

-- Remove the hub with a slide hammer. The bearing will come apart.

-- Remove the brakes.

-- Arc weld or mig-weld the inside of the old bearing, taking care to not throw spatter on the axle stub. One only has to weld on perhaps half of the old bearing. The old bearing will shrink with the weld metal. Carefully work the old bearing race out. Then sand the rust out of the hub.

-- Get some sort of similar sized material for a driver -OR- slice one (Remington blade) hacksaw cut on the old bearing. Perhaps the bearing will have shrunk enough to use without slicing. Tap in the new bearing with the driver.

-- Remember the backing plate. (ouch)

-- Remove old inner race from wheel flange. Tap in flange while tightening axle nut.

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