How do you replace spark plug wires on Taurus - Sable Duratec 24v engine?

Answer 1

Sparkplug wires only eh...

Couple of things you'll need:

* Small screwdriver * Di-electric grease * 8mm & 10mm sockets

* 5/16ths nut-driver * EGR gasket - optional

NOTE: goes on dry

* PCV Valve - optional * Spray Throttle Body cleaner & old toothbrush - optional

The number 1 thing to know about changing plug wires:

Fight back the impulse to just yank them all off at once... Virtually guarantee the next question then is "What is the firing order of plug wires from coilpack to plugs??"

This is the 'fun' of the Duratec engine - accessing the back plugs. I, and many others found removing the upper intake manifold (UIM) well worth the effort (sometimes known as a plenum). Adds about 15-20 minutes to the job, but cuts down the cuts & scrapes & swearing at design engineers.

I started with disconnecting the air intake from the throttle body - that's the 5/16ths nut-driver - it might be a 7mm like I found on the Contour. You really don't need to remove it from the vehicle, just move it aside.

Next up, remove the EGR valve on the front of the UIM right behind the throttle body. All it takes is a 10MM socket to remove 2 nuts and 2 bolts. You can probably get by just removing the 2 upper bolts but I found things are easier if you just get it out of the way.

NOTES:

* this is a good opportunity to give the EGR valve a good checking over, hoses & cleaning - I discovered a collapsed hose on mine

* Replace the PCV valve while you're here! That thing is buried down there so replace it now * See "Related Questions" below for more about the EGR valve

Now go over to the passenger side of the UIM/plenum. There is a vacuum switch that you just pull the hoses off and disconnect the electrical wires that go to it. Now you can remove the UIM/plenum - or hang it up by bungee from hood

Watch out for the Vacuum hose under the Plenum near the Throttle body, it will probably come off when you lift the plenum up and you really can't see it. It will cause a misfire and set DTC's P1131 and P1151(O2 sensor lean). I ended pulling the plenum twice before I found that hose. If it wasn't for that hose coming loose the job would have taken me less then 45 minutes. (quoted from the sparkplug related question below)

From there, I just started looking for the 8 small bolts that hold the UIM down - nothing really tricky here as the bolts are pretty much on top and accessible.

NOTE: another good opportunity to do some cleaning! If your intake looks anything like mine did, you'll be wanting to grab some rags & that throttle body cleaner. If you break off any chunky pieces of carbon, be sure to not leave them behind - vacuum them out.

Also, the UIM gasket is a rubber thing that can be reused - no need to buy a replacement.

Open up the wire 'looms' - the plastic guides that routes the wires from the plug to the coilpack. This is where the small screwdriver comes in handy - look closely for where the pieces come together to identify where to pry against the top/bottom to open.

Pull the wire off the plug - this is where you could run into some frustrations. Not quite so bad since you don't care about re-using the wires, so you can just pull and yank to your heart's content. The 'boot' - heavy rubber end - tend to stick, and sometimes stick hard.

For those times you are not replacing the wires, there are plastic plier-type tools for helping deal with the stuck wire boots.

Do NOT pull on the wire - pull and TWIST on the boot to break them loose.

With the wire loose from the plug, trace its route back towards the coilpack - I like to start inserting the new wire along the way. There's usually enough grip to hold the wire, even without the top on.

Back at the coilpack, you'll likely find a pair of arms sticking up that clip the end onto the coilpack terminal the wire goes to. A bit of squeeze & twisting motion helps break things loose.

The wireset I put on my Contour the other day already had di-electric grease on the coilpack end - I added some to the plug end. Guarantees no stuck wires the next time, plus provides a degree of protection to the electrical connection from the elements / engine cleanings.

NOTE: when putting the boot onto the plug, you'll feel a perceptable clicking action when the metal connector seats onto the top of the plug / plug terminal. If this is your first time, practice on a couple easy-to-reach ones to get familiar with what to expect.

DOUBLE CHECK each plug/ wire connection - heck, even triple check just for good measure.

For this, gather your collection of socket extensions and universal joints...

* 3/4" plug socket on a 6" extension

TIP: wrap a piece of duct tape on this joint! It prevents the plug socket from coming loose while pulling it out, and the PITA of long nose pliers to retrieve it from the deep well the plug sits in.

* Anti-seize compound on the threads & a bit of grease on the plug body - optional, but recommended to avoid future problems with seized plugs and stuck wire boots. Some day you'll thank yourself! * GAP - hopefully the auto parts store wrote it down for you - otherwise call them back & ask, or check the Owners Manual or on a label somewhere in the engine compartment

* I don't know the torque specification, but don't get carried away when tightening the plug - snug 'em in nice

This is a good opportunity to give the throttle body a good cleaning - easy enough while you have all this stuff disconnected and open.

Put everything back - UIM, EGR, double-check that small vauum hose on the other end of the UIM, air intake hookup, etc.

Make the entries in your Maintenance Log, clean up & thank your tools for a job-well-done and pour yourself a frothy adult-beverage.