Yes it is a small block and NOT an LT1 engine. 5.7L is a 350 engine.
No they stoped making the 400 SB in 1981
It is on the back of the alternator, Disconnect the Battery first!. There is a small module on the back of alternator remove and replace.
the thermostat is located behind the alternator on the front of your engine block. you might need to remove the alternator unless you have small hands then just squeeze in there with either a hex wrench or socket and open the plastic housing up and pull the old thermostat out and replace it with the new thermostat and gasket.
Yes, assuming you're running a small block. If you're running a turbocharged engine or a big block (e.g., the 454SS pickup), the torque of that engine will greatly exceed what the transmission is rated for.
the door hinges are welded so you have to use a small hammer and small punch to tap out the pins that look like big nails.
Left side on front of motor. Follow the battery cable and it will lead you right to it.
replace the engine with a small block chev
the alternator is removed from below and there is three bolts (10 mm socket) that need removed. one of these bolts is on the other side of alternator. use a small mirror to see this bolt. Don't forget to disconnect battery!!!
Some do, some don't. The distributor, starter and alternator fit, the water pump does not. The mounting brackets are all different.
On older models, it was usually on the core support or inner fender. From the early 70's it was inside the alternator.
You will need to remove the transmission.
You remove four bolts from alternator taking off all hoses and remembering where you took off bolt plates(small plates that screws go into). You then remove three bolts on passenger side of alternator. Take off drive belt. You will have to replace it. You will use the tension pulley to replace the belt. It takes a little force.
Need to know the year of engine.
Remove ground cable from battery. Start by jacking car up so driver side front wheel is off the ground. Remove that wheel. The only way to get the alternator out is through that wheel well. Remove the nut and bolt from the bottom of the alternator. Mine was frozen in and took a lot of effort to remove. Then remove the bracket that is attached to the engine block. This has to come off to get the alternator out. One more adjusting bolt at the top needs to be removed. This is accessed from above. Remove the small nut that holds an electrical connection on top of the alternator. Then remove the electrical plug that is in the side of the alternator. Take the alternator out from the bottom of the car thru the wheel well. Repeat for install. email@example.com
Unplug the wire connector and remove the one small bolt that holds the sensor in the timing cover and then pull out on the sensor. push the new one back in the hole and install the small bolt and plug it back up and your done.
"The v8 350 is a small block Chevrolet motor.....................it became a big block at 396cubic inches......so anything smaller is a "small" block" this is a little misleading. a 350 is indeed a small block. a 396 is indeed a big block. but you can have a small block that is (internally..cubic inch wise) actually larger than a big block. for example GM made a 400 cubic inch small block. internally it is a larger engine than a 396, but the outer dimensions of the 396 are larger than the 400 small block. and the external dimensions and cylinder head design are what make a small block a small block, and a big block a big block. a small block engine simply has a physically smaller block...a big block is called a big block because it's block is bigger than that of a small block.
Since shortly after the invention of the Alternator, most vehicle manufacturers have implemented a regulator INSIDE the alternator. Solid state regulators are small and relatively inexpensive and it's generally recommended that if the alternator fails, just replace brushes, bearings, regulator and diodes... which is pretty much what you get with a QUALITY rebuilt alternator.
loosen bottom bolt on the alternator unit and push the alternator towards the engine block until you can remove the belt from the pulley on the alternator. Leave in the bottom bolt until you have removed the top bolt as it may need some levering with a small pry bar to pull the top of the alternator away, when the top is free remove the bottom bolt while holding the alternator so it wont fall, and remove the tension spring. This should only take about 20 to 30 mins!
On the 3.2L V6 disconnect the battery, then disconnect the wire and the wireharness plug from the back of the alternator. You have to reach them from the passenger side wheel well. Loosen the bolt (14 mm) that holds the alternator to the bottom of the power steering pump bracket. Loosen the small adjusting bolt ( 10 mm ) located under the vehicle on the right hand side of the alternator that points out to the right. Take off the belt. ( Check it for wear you might want to change it out as well ). Remove the bolt (12mm) that holds the small metal block that the 10mm adjusting bolt was threaded into. Remove the top bolt ( that 14mm one ) and pull the alternator out through the wheel well.
It is a small block
That would be a small block.
The header manufacturers make a braket that straddles over the front header tube, and will allow you to mount it there. See your local speed shop.
On a dodge alternator the two small wires go to the voltage regulator . It doesn't matter which wire goes where, but the red or blue wire needs 12 volts when the key is on. The green wire goes directly to the regulator from the alternator. The large wire goes to the battery and it is important that you don't undersize this wire. The other wire is a ground wire and can be grounded to the block or not used as the case is grounded by the bolts that hold it on.