Front Disk pads on the 94 Buicks are pretty standard GM design. Set parking brake, Elevate front wheels and secure on sturdy jack stands. Remove wheels. Open the lid of the brake fluid reservoir. Put paper towels under it to catch overflow drips. Use a large 3/8" Hex wrench or a hex socket to remove the two bolts on the Caliper. The head is on the inboard side of the caliper where you cannot see it. Do only one wheel at a time so you can see how it goes back together. Wiggle the caliper and lift it off the rotor. Hang it from the suspension with a coat hanger wire to avoid strain on the flexible break hose. Use a large 8� C-clamp and one of the break pads to slowly compress the piston. Go slow as this pushes fluid back to the reservoir which may overflow. Inspect the rotor for grooves or rough surfaces, and replace if needed. Most rotors cannot be machined down because it removes too much metal and would reduce the heat capacity of your brakes. Rotors are not attached to the hub, just pull on them to remove. (Also replace rotor if hitting brakes causes steering wheel shimmy.) Clean a new rotor with a solvent such as BrakeClean and paper towels. Install new pads. Coat the contact points between the pads and the caliper with Locktite anti-squeal (adhesive goo) to prevent brake squeal. Replace the caliper assembly back on the rotor. This may require much vigorous wiggling of the unit to get it back into place. If it is too tight make sure you have fully compressed the piston. Lubricate the caliper bolts and replace them. More wiggling of the caliper may be needed to line up the bolts. Tighten the bolts.
Compare you work with the appearance of the other side. Repeat the work on the other side. Put tires back on. Tighten lug nuts in cris-cross sequence to avoid warping rotors. Put cap back on brake fluid reservoir. Test operation of brake by spinning wheel by hand and pressing brake. Lower car and road test, Apply brakes gently for first 10 stops.
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