Firstly you will need to check your cross member for excessive corrosion, in my case a small hole appeared at the nearside end of the member and put the 'kiss of death' on the unit. I then took out of 'stock' the unit purchased about 18mths ago and coated the edges with 'Hammerite' where some surface rust was evident. Then I lifted the front of the van with levelling blocks, about 4", so I'm now on my way.
Firstly one needs to gather all the gear necessary to carry out the operation.
1. Blocks to catch each end of the member
2. 18mm and 17mm sockets with a large socket bar to undo 6 bolts holding the member in place plus the one single bolt holding the plastic cover on the off side, no need to take off the cover, just move it to one side slightly to get at the member bolt.
3. Remove cables from clips on top of the member
4. Fit a support, in my case a 2" wooden pole, across the the 2 wings, with cushion under to allow support for the radiator.
5. I used a 1" strap with ratchet, to cradle the radiator for support, once the member had been removed.
6. Remove the 17mm bolt from the plastic cover on the off side.
7. Remove 2 bolts each side holding the cross member, the remaining 2 loosen down to almost a couple of threads, make sure above the member there are no cables attached, take out final single bolt and lay member on blocks at that end, remove final bolt and remove member out of chassis.
8. You may find that the rubber bushes at the bottom of the radiator may come out with the old member, don't worry they can be installed with new unit. Having removed the old member look how the clips fasten and do a little practicing to ease re cabling when new member has been fitted.
9. Check radiator rubber bushes are in place, smear a little 'shower gel' around holes that takes the bushes to ease fitting and generally check all pipes in that area for wear, in my case I found a rad hose with some wear on the outside, I taped that area to reduce any problems in the future.
10. Slide new member in place and sit one end on blocks, the other end insert one bolt, make sure you have oiled the threads to aid tightening. Insert another bolt at the other end and remove blocks. Insert all bolts and gently tighten making sure rad rubber bushes are in place and no wiring above the member is trapped. Finally tighten up all bolts very tightly and then fit all cables etc into clips above the member. Remove radiator supporting strap. Spin the fan blades by hand to ensure nothing is trapping the movement.
For normal operation to complete its approx 3 hours, in a garage with pit obviously a lot less, say 2 hours.
This is not a difficult job even for the faint hearted as long as you are between 18 and 80 years old.
Savings are in the order of £300 which will buy you a ferry crossing and more.
Replace
It taps into your bell housing, behind where the motor meets the tranny, it is right above your cross member, you can remove the cross member and get to it very easily, you do not have to remove it to replace it though
Like a cross between a pit bull and a boxer?
pull the drive shaft the trans cross member the trans and its right there
weld a new plate over the holes cut out the bad bits or buy a new cross member for 60 euro and replace the lot about 8 hrs work
A real rabbit punch!
Alsoxer or a Boxatian or Brian
Impossible to tell being a mix.
Yes, the cross member is under the load on a 1989 Chevy van.
You have to hold the trans in place to remove the skid plate.
unbolt mount jack up trans unbolt cross member and reassemble
I own 2003 Tracker 4x4 4 cyl. My crossmember is rusted out and the dealer will replaced- no cost to me. But I have question: if the crossmember is out - will be easy to replace the oil pan and starter ? any saving for me? Mark