First you take of the wires that are on your head (top of the moter) Make sure that you don't forget witch plug go in witch hole. then theres a ground wire that goes to where your antifreez is at the right handside. Take it off!!Then theres size 10mm bolt on the head i think theres 6 of them. Take them Off then the top of your moter is lose so with your two hands pop it off then lay it upside down on the intakemanafold. theres going to be a black lineing on where the head lays pull it off take the new one and put it on. You what to do then put everything back. That's the best way to explane it.
This is NOT correct. This answer is referring to replacing the valve cover gasket.
First, do what the prior answer says.
Then drain the oil and coolant.
Then disconnect the exhaust and intake manifolds. The intake manifold probably has a brace on it that will not allow you to push it away from the cylinder head. Remove it from underneath.
Then disconnect all hoses and sensor wires connected to the head.
Then by the driver's side front tire, you should see a pulley and a 19mm bolt. This is the crank pulley and crank pulley bolt. Remove this with an impact wrench. If you can't remove it, then remove the flywheel housing cover, it's on the passenger's side of the oil pan. Should be 5 bolts. Then stick a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to hold it still and remove the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar.
Then remove all accessory belts, then pull off the crank pulley. Make note of the notch in the crank pulley, that has to align with the notch in the crank sprocket.
Then remove the upper and lower timing belt covers, just a bunch of 10mm bolts.
Then remove the timing belt by loosening the tensioner bolt, then you can push on the tensioner and slide the timing belt off. If you're replacing the belt, you'll need to support the engine by putting a jack under the oil pan. Then remove the top driver's side engine mount so the timing belt can come out.
Then remove the cam journals and distributor. You'll probably have to tap them with a mallet to loosen them after you've removed the bolts. They will be labelled such as "IE4" which means "Intake cam journal #4". Keep them in order. Then remove the cams. You may have to soak up the oil sitting in the cylinder head in order to see the head bolts. Remove these in the order specified in your shop manual to avoid warping the head.
Then remove the head, you may have to tap it and pull kinda hard to get it off. Then remove the old head gasket and use a razor to scrape the top of the block and bottom of the cylinder head clean so there's no part of the old gasket left. Put shop rags in the water jacket around the pistons so no junk falls in.
Then put the new head gasket in, put the head back on, and tighten the bolts in the proper order and use a torque wrench to tighten them to the proper spec. Don't just "go by feel" or you might warp the head.
Then put the cams back in, and put assembly lube around the journals. Tighten them to spec also. Usually you tighten to a certain torque in a specific order, then you tighten to a higher torque.
Then you need to put the timing belt back on. There's going to be an UP label on each cam. That has to be completely vertical for both, and the crank sprocket notch needs to be vertical as well. However, on the DOHC engine the valve springs will make the cams not stay in position. If this is your first time, go to NAPA and by the tool that holds the cams in place for $10. Snap it in, making sure both cams are aligned properly, and put the timing belt back on. If the cams are up but the crank sprocket notch is down, just rotate it one more time. If you are in doubt, make sure all notches are up, then stick a long screwdriver down into the sparkplug hole for cylinder #1 (one closest to the driver's side of the car) and make sure it's at the top. Then slip the timing belt on, and push on the tensioner while tightening it so the timing belt is on properly.
Then put the timing belt covers back on.
Then put the crank pulley back on and tighten the bolt to spec.
Reattach all the hoses, manifolds, distributor, and pour some oil over top of the cam lobes. Then put the valve cover back on and put your accessory belts back on. Then refill with oil and coolant.
Start it up and should be fine now. If it runs rough or lacks power, you might have not gotten the timing belt on properly. You can either recheck it or take it to a shop, normally about $70 for them to adjust it.
Replacing a 1992 Acura Integra head gasket will cost approximately $500. The exact cost to replace the head gasket is dependent upon several different factors.
The brake lights are located in the trunk of a 1997 Acura Integra. To replace them open the trunk and find the plastic housing. Remove and replace the bulbs.
Replace the head gasket. Major repair that should only be done by a professional with the proper tools and skill.
how do you replace an alternator on a 1990 integra
where is the flasher relay located 94 acura integra
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The fan switch on a 1995 Acura Integra is located on the dashboard. It is a part of the temperature control system.
where is the ignition module located ina 2000 integra acura
yes but you will be disappointed
The 2000 Acura Integra OBD 2 port is under passenger dash
how to change head gasket on 1997 acura
The fuel filter on a Acura Integra is located near the rear of the engine. More specifically it is mounted on the firewall of the engine bay.
With a screwdriver.
91 acura integra has a b18 91 acura integra has a b18
on the header
in the trunk
Yes, the 1992 Acura Integra has a wiper relay on it. The relay is located under the underhood relay box.
The brake light fuse on a 1995 Acura Integra is located inside the cabin of the vehicle. It is on the same circuit as the dash and hazard lights.
There is a gasket between the master cylinder and the booster of a 1990 Acura Integra. It is shaped like the side of the master cylinder with two bolt holes.
The fuel pump is located in the car
From in the trunk
answer not for free.lol
very carefully lol