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How do you replace the right front hub bearing on a 94 grand am GT?
Wiki User
∙ 15y ago
You need some basic tools and couple of tools that not everyone has. First, get a 30mm hub socket and a T-55 Torx socket- those are the specialized tools. Pull the car onto a flat surface. Remove the hubcap or lugnut cover, then use the 30mm hub socket, probably with a breaker bar, to just get the hub nut moving, leave it snug, but start it moving with the wheel on the ground. After you have moved it, go ahead and jack the car up and support it on jackstands using proper precautions- chock and/or use the parking brake because you will need to put the transmission in neutral later. If the 30mm hub socket will not fit with your wheels installed, replace the wheel with the spare, and it will fit. You need the resistance of the wheel on the ground to get the leverage needed to budge the hub nut (unless you have a impact wrench). Once the car is up, remove the wheel. Then remove the brake caliper and support it with wire so it does not hang from the hose. Remove the brake disk. Now fully remove the hub nut- car should be in park (or in gear) at this time. You will note that there are three holes in the hub flange, 2 smaller holes and one larger. Only the larger hole will allow for removal of the hub mounting bolts. Place the car in neutral and rotate the hub flange until the larger hole lines up with the hub bolts. these are T-55 Tork head- so have the right size. Use a breaker bar if necessary and fully remove all 3 bolts. the bolt will fit though the larger hole, the washer will not. Just remove the bolt and let the washer fall into your hand. Rotate the larger hole to the next bolt and repeat. When all three hub bolts are out, tap or pound as required (should not take too much to get it moving) the hub out from the back to slide it off of the axle splines. When the hub is off, clean the inside of the steering knuckle where the hub fits in and lubricate it. I used anti-sieze, grease will work. The hub should come with a seal. This goes over the end of the hub that goes into the knuckle. Lubricate the hub where the seal will wount as well. Line the seal up on the hub- you probably will not get it fully seated before you tighten the hub unless you have a press to press the seal on. No worries, get it started and the action of tightening the hub into place evenly will seat it. Now, line up the new hub with the seal on it, with the hole the the knuckle, with the axle splines in place in the hub. Get one of the hub bolts started (don't forget the washer) , but don't put it in too far. If the hub starts to go in unevenly, it will cause the relucter ring on the axle to bind up and you will not be able to rotate the hub to line up the larger hole on the next bolt. Take it slow- get all the bolts started just a bit, then tighten them slowly and evenly, just a bit at a time. If you tighten a little too much and cannot rotate the hub, just back the last bolt off a bit, abd go to the next one. When you get all of the hub bolts tightened all the way down, the hub flange will rest solidly against the knuckle. I believe that the value on these bolts is 70 ft/lbs, but don't take my word for it. Look it up. After the hub bolts are all tightened, put the 30 mm hub nut on (again, don't forgrt the washer), and start to tighten it- you will not be able to get it completely tightened until the wheel is on the ground. Now, replace the brake disk and brake caliper. You can now replace the wheel, start the lugnuts, get the snug, then lower the car to the ground. Finish tightening the lug nuts. Now you can finish tightening the 30mm hub nut. I believe the value is 192 ft/lbs, but again, don't take my word for it, look it up. There you go.
Wiki User
∙ 15y ago
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