Here is a link to the timing mark diagram:
One of the below answers is good, but disregard the parts about getting the crankshaft to TDC. Use the timing marks instead, they are CLOSE to TDC, but not exactly. This caused me a lot of frustration. Also, make sure that when you replace the crank pulley to torque it to 110 foot pounds.
If you don't have a timer, it would probably be better to take it to a mechanic. Otherwise, you just take one belt off and put the new one on. But you still need to re-time it with a timer... which might require a mechanic if you don't have one or don't have a friend to borrow one from.
a haynes or chilton manual has a great walk thru on how to do this job.
The procedure is pretty much straight forward. First you will need to put the engine TDC on the compression stroke. This vehicle does not have a distributor so you will need to feel for air coming out of the #1 cylinder (spark plug hole) to know that it is on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke. Make sure that you remove all the plugs on the exhaust side of the engine( keep track of what goes where) and leave the intake plugs in place (can't build compression with them out) then use a large socket and ratchet to turn the engine in a clockwise direction. Once you feel the air escaping out of the cylinder continue to turn the crank pulley clockwise until the marking on it lines up with the 0 deg or TDC marking on the scale located near the crank. Next remove the mounting bolts off the a/c compressor and move it to the side without disconnecting any of the lines. Then remove the bolts holding the A/C and the power-steering pump. Remove the bracket. You should then be able to remove the timing belt cover to access the belt. Ensure that all the timing marks on the sprockets match the inside of the timing cover. Make sure that all these marking remain the same during the entire install. You will need to remove the crank pulley as well. Do not disturb the position of the crank while removing the pulley. Then you will need to release the tension off the belt in order to remove it. Once removed ensure that all the marking are in their proper locations and that the sprockets are still in good condition. Put the new belt on starting with the crank shaft and working your way around in a counter clockwise direction all the while ensuring not to leave any slack in the belt. Ensure that belt in centered on the sprockets. Next reapply tension to the belt 33 to 35 ft lbs (against the belt ) and ensure the tensioner bolts are tight. Make a final check to see that all the marking are aligned and spin the crank in a clockwise direction to ensure no binding and verify that belt has been placed in the correct fashion. Assembly of remaining parts is in reverse order.
About the timer, I think you are talking about a timing light. If that is the case the only thing you can do with it is verify the timing because the timing on a ford ranger 97 type is all controlled by the computer and cannot be adjusted, so there is no need for a timing light. Just make sure you line up all the markings on the sprockets to TDC and you will be fine.
before all the above you need to determine 4 cylinder or V6, timing belt verses timing chain are completely different in tear down sequence.
on my 1997 ranger with an 2.3 it has an trigerwheel for the spark sensor on the back side of the pulley on the crank when putting the motor in time i had to set the bottom pulley at -10 deg after tdc to get the truck to run right it had no power using the book marks i worked on this for three days moving it one tooth at a time until it ran as it did before the belt broke i someone and saves the nightmare i had
What are the advantages of stress interview?
Why the story entitled origin of fair complexion and fair hair?
Ano ang kahulugan ng iskolarling pagpapahayag?
What is a classified data spill or negligent discharge of classified information?
Ano ang papel na ginagampanan ng mga impormasyong ito sa mapa o sa globo?