One user's answer
There are three ways to shut off the "Check Engine Light" discount battery (not recommended): use a scan tool and delete code, or wait 40-80 key cycles, depending what the code was set for.
Now, if you discount the battery for around 5 minutes, the Check Engine Light will come off, BUT all memory will be lost. Therefore, the vehicle would have to "relearn" new criteria/values.
It will come back on as soon as the symptoms are seen again and you won't pass emissions. A scan tool is a decent way (only if vehicle was fixed), BUT when you delete a code, you erase freeze frame data (and, of course, the code itself) making it harder for the next tech to fix the problem.
Finally, the best way is key cycles - AKA warm-up cycles. If the car is properly repaired after 40 (type B misfire) or 80 (type A misfire), if the PCM doesn't see the problem occur, it will automatically erase the code.
The easiest and fastest way to reset an engine light on any OBD Toyota (OBD1=95 and older / OBD2=96 and newer), is simply this: Pop your hood, and look for the under-the-hood fuse box. Now look on the fuse cover for a fuse labeled "EFI" and pull that fuse out. Now turn the key to "On," but don't start the engine.
Every computer-controlled Toyota has a memory cell in the computer; by pulling the fuse, you are cutting the power supply to the computer. Turning the key on drains the memory cell, so after the key has been on for a minute or two, turn the key off, replace the fuse, and - drum roll!! - the light is out. Be aware, though, if it was more than a hiccup in the system and you haven't corrected the cause of the problem, your light will come back to visit.
All true and accurate. OBDII became mandatory on all vehicles sold on or after 01Jan1996 in the United States, the OBDII Port must be within three feet of the driver and require no tools to access. But Toyota was a bit ahead and had it as early as 1993, in 1994 model~year cars, the Camry, Lexus, for example and others
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