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First pull the spark plugs, then pull the timing plug on the left side of the motorcycle, just above the primaryand just below the cylinders on the case. If you have a kickstarter, turn motor over with it till the timing mark on the flywheel is directly in the middle of the hole with the piston in #1 cylinder at or near top dead center mon compression stroke. If you don't have a kickstarter, jack the back wheel up, put the bike in high gear and turn the motor over by turning the rear wheel till the mark is in the hole. Remember, the front piston must be up and on compression stroke.Move to the other side of the motorcycle and remove the timing cover. Behind the bolt in the center is a cam, a bushing with two lobes on it, one wide and one narrow. The narrow one is the lobe for cylinder #1. On the points is a fiber block that rides on that cam, causing the points to open as the fiber block rides over the lobe. That cam will turn a little bit against a set of springs behind the plate the points and condenser are mounted on, which is held in place by two slotted round things called stand-offs. In the center of the stand-offs are screw holes to hold the cover in place, so that we are talking about the same thing. Loosen the stand-offs, and while you're at it, take them all the way out. then remove the plate. do not disconnect wire, just let it hang and inspect the counterweights and springs. While there, twist the cam bushing so that you know how it operates. If the weights, which should not wiggle too much, only push out to either side, and springs are in good shape, replace the plate leaving the stand-offs a little loose and turn the plate on the slots, moving it to where the stand-offs are in the center of the slots. then with a pair of needle nose pliers, bent end are best, turn the cam to its farthest forward position and move the plate till the points are barely beginning to open. An easy way to tell this is by putting a piece of cellophane, such as the wrapper over a pack of cigarettes, between the contacts of the points, and while holding the cam at full advance, turn the plate till the cellophane slips loose and tighten the stand-offs. put a little grease on the cam for lube and the motorcycle is then timed perfectly. replace cover, plugs, timing plug, and take bike out of gear and have a nice ride.

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3y ago

Having trouble timing Harley sportster it is kicking back and backfiring

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Havi

ng trouble setting timing on a sportster

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How do you time a 1978 Harley sportster with point

Have trouble timing won't run backfiring and kicking

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3y ago

I set it and it off

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Q: How do you set timing on a 79 Iron Head Sportster with points and condensor Please guide me step for step?
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Remove the timing cover on the right side of the motor. Then remove the spark plugs. Then remove the timing plug on the left side, just above the primary cover. Notice (NOTICE means look but don't touch with a wrench) that the points cam, behind the bolt head in the middle, has a wide lobe and a narrow lobe. Notice also, by feeling with your fingers, that the cam, the surface the points ride on, will turn behind the bolt. Do NOT loosen or tighten the bolt, and if you had it out and put it back in, do NOT overtighten as it is a very fragile bolt and bends easily. Turning the motor over, if it has a kickstart, or by putting the bike in high gear and turning the rear wheel, bring the flywheels around till the slot on the flywheel is in the timing hole with the narrow lobe on the points cam near the fiber block on the points. It is imperative that you make sure that the narrow lobe, not the wide lobe, on the cam is near the fiber block or it will be 180 degrees out. Then, place a piece of cellophane, such as comes wrapped around a pack of cigarettes, between the points, loosen the slotted screws, top and bottom on an xl, so that the plate the points are attached to will turn. the cam will rock clockwise a little bit, advancing the timing. Turn the plate holding the points until when the cam is turned all the way forward, the cellophane will barely pull from between the points. Let go of the cam and tighten the slotted screws and you will be perfectly static timed. Side note: to check if the bolt has been bent, check your points gap on both lobes by turning the motor over. It should be even or very close. If this is too complicated, just locate the two slotted screws in the center of the sliding slots and the bike should run. Then take it to someone to time properly.


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