You need your clutch damper,it regulates how much pressure is applied to your operating cylinder.
The clutch damper softens the response of the clutch engagement/disengagement. It can definitely be removed, you just need to connect the 2 pieces that lead to and from it, fairly simple mod on most cars. The damper should (or most do that need it) have its own bleeder screw for bleeding the clutch hydraulic system (usually one on the slave cylinder and one on the damper itself. if you aren't bleeding both from lowest to highest (air goes up, bleed from the bottom up) that might be your problem. If you do remove the damper the clutch feel will be much stiffer and more responsive, i.e. you will be able to feel more when it engages and disengages.
yes,open bleeder valve on cluch slave cylinder and clutch damper to release air.
u must bleed the system . fill the clutch master cylinder with dot 3 brake fluid and keep an eye on it when bleeding so it wont run out ,have someone pump clutch pedal 3 times and hold to floor and oper bleeder valve on clutch slave cylinder till no air comes out then go to clutch damper and do the same ,follow clutch line fromclutch master cylinderto damper.
your clutch is warped from excess heat ////sounds like broken damper springs in the clutch disc have you been dropping the clutch by any chance?
on slave cylinder that's bolted to side of transmission and one on clutch damper ,which is bolted on left side of fire wall.
Is the leak coming from your slave cylinder,it has two bolts holding it on,with a rubber cover,if so ,you need to replace and bleed it and your clutch damper,its on the left side of fire wall,just follow your clutch line from clutch master cylinder,20.00 for slave cylinder.,
yes you do,also if it has a cluch damper,you need to bleed it also,its bolted on left side firewall or just follow the line coming from clutch master cylinder.good luck.
BLEEDING THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.On 1986-88 models that incorporate a clutch damper in the hydraulic system, perform Steps 1-10 for the clutch damper and then move on to the release cylinder.Remove the cap and loosen the bleeder screw on the clutch release cylinder. Cover the hole with your finger.Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal several times. Take your finger off the hole while the pedal is being depressed so that the air in the system can be released. Put your finger back on the hole and release the pedal.After fluid pressure can be felt (with your finger) tighten the bleeder screw.Put a short length of hose over the bleeder screw and place the other end into a jar half full of clean brake fluid.Depress the clutch pedal and loosen the bleeder screw. Allow the fluid to flow into the jar.Tighten the plug and then release the clutch pedal.Repeat Steps 6-7 until no air bubbles are visible in the bleeder tube.When there are no more air bubbles in the system, tighten the plug fully with the pedal depressed. Replace the plastic cap.Fill the master cylinder to the correct level with brake fluid.Check the system for leaks.Follow clutch line from clutch master cylinder,it goes to the clutch damper,then line leaves clutch damper to slave cylinder,its bolted on to side of transmission with 2 bolts,a rubber hose is toward end.
AKA, crank pulley damper, crankshaft damper, torsional damper, or vibration damper.
were is the damper on a furance
step on the clutch and hold it to the floor clutch should stay disengaged for as long as you hold it down