It depends on whether you have a newer model which uses the breakerless ignition, or the older versions which use points. This method is for the newer models. If you are lucky enough to have the newer model, connect your timing light per manufacturer's directions with the test lead clamped close to the #1 spark plug. Locate the timing hole in the transaxle - should be below the wide black plastic air-intake tube. Unscrew the plastic plug (counter clockwise) and stow it in a safe place. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose going to the distributor. Start the engine (in Neutral, with the handbrakes on!). Once the car reaches normal operating temperature (fan should come on perhaps twice) point the timing light into the hole while squeezing the trigger. You will have to try to get the light just right so you can see both the fly wheel and a little pointer on the inside edge of the hole. The timing light pulses will show you whether the timing mark is lined up with the pointer. If it is lined up you are set. Otherwise you need to turn off the engine, then using a 13mm wrench, loosen the distributor clamp (at the base of the distributor), to where you can turn it with some effort. Start the engine and while shining the light into the hole, carefully turn the distributor while holding the base and not the cap, or you will probably have a shocking experience. While turning the distributor, you will want to make sure the timing mark (either a line, or a notch on the edge of the flywheel) is moving toward the pointer. Also, be careful to stay out of the way of the radiator fan, as it may come on without warning and scare the dickens out of you at best, or cut you up at worst. Once you get the marks lined up, carefully tighten the distributor clamp (13mm wrench), reattach the vacuum advance hose, replace the timing hole plug, and you are done. Note: Your engine idle speed must already be correct for this to be precise. You can use a dwell/tachometer to check your idle if you don't have a tach already. Idle speed should be on a sticker on the inside of the hood. Hope this helps
There is no 1991 VW Rabbit.
The recommended spark plug gap for a 1981 VW Rabbit is .028"
VW "The Rabbit"
Yes, the VW Rabbit will be available in both standard and automatic transmission. The transmission options are a 5 speed manual or 6 speed automatic.
Volkswagen has a new 2010 Rabbit. Of course the VW Golf used to be the same car and this was the name it was always known by in Europe. Here's a review of the new model from Edmunds.com http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/rabbit/review.html.
The Rabbit was actually only called a Rabbit in North America. Elsewhere it was called the "Golf". The reason for the name change is because VW feared that people would associate the name "Golf" with the sport, as opposed to the wind, which all Volkswagens were named after at the time. VW fans later teased the idea of the Golf being associated with the sport by implying the pickup truck must be the vehicle that carries the clubs; the "Caddy".
The firing order on a rabbit is 1-3-4-2 gas or diesel.
a VW rabbit
You can buy a new cylinder head for a 1981 VW Rabbit Diesel at most auto part stores. Salvage yards also carry the item.
It's a VW Rabbit.
The Volkswagen Rabbit is also manufactured as the Volkswagen Golf. A German made car that is sold and used worldwide the Volkswagen Rabbit is loved for its economical efficiency.
Yes. From the A-pillar forward, a Rabbit Pickup is the same as a Rabbit. Even from A to B pillar there are many similarities (door, glass, etc.) between a Pickup and a four door Rabbit. If your Rabbit Pickup is a U.S. made Rabbit, just make sure that you get the front fender from a U.S. made Rabbit with the square headlights and turn signals as opposed to the round headlight "Euro" Rabbit (like the old Diesels and Cabriolets) and vise versa.
What year they were released. Different model year = different name...more or less the same car.
Standard 10w40 or 10w30.
VW is a German automobile company. However they have factories in Tenn where the Passat is built, and in Pennsylvania where the Rabbit & Jetta are built for U.S. sales.
The recommended gap is .028.
It's on the passenger side under the hood, by where all the belts are.
I've had my Rabbit PU for 11 years. I always use 15W 40 oil made for Diesel engines.
No, but they are quick little cars.