In a 4 wire, 220v AC circuit, each black wire carries 110v, the white serves as the return, or negative, and the copper is the ground.
So connect the white to the negative post of whatever your using (light or switch), and one of the black wires to the other for a 110V circuit.
If you're connecting a 110v two- strand wire to a 220v outlet, connect one wire to a black post and the other to the white post.
Make sure you have a neutral. Some times the white wire is the second hot and there is no neutral.
the wires coming off double pole will give you 240 volts,110 each the black and white hook to these,doesn`t matter which way,ground to ground Ground is always ground, Black and white are your two "hots." You will need a dedicated circuit, you cannot run this off existing 120V wiring. A 15A 240V circuit should be more than sufficient. If this is a permanent instalation you can use 14/2 wire as you normally would, and wire it as you normally would with the exception of the 240V breaker. If you install switches, timers, etc. Make sure they are all rated for 240V. Remember, you can't just mix-and-match between 120 and 240V. 240 appliances will not run on 120 and 120 appliances will burn up on 240.
Generally 220v anything works easier or with less effort so can be cheaper to run. Appliances that run off 240V draw less current than 120V appliances so lighter wiring and fixtures can be used. However, 240V is more prone to arcing than 120V. Also, 240V is more likely to blow you away than 120V, whereas 120V is more likely to "grab" (Cause your muscles to involuntarily contract, i.e. making your hand grab a conductor) you. Also the US uses 120V because Edison originally used 100V. It was upped over the years to cope with demand. The US also has 240V in residential service for large appliances like ovens and dryers.
You really cant do it because a 220 has a heating element in it to dry the clothes unlike gas that uses fire to dry the clothes and the 120 is to turn the drum.Your drier will keep poppin breakers which isn't good at all.Outlets and Power(110V outlets and 120V outlets are practically the same for this discussion. I will refer to them as 120V. Same with 220V/240V outlets.) By 110V outlet I'm assuming you mean a standard US 120V 15A outlet.This outlet can provide a maximum of 15A at 120V. This means the outlet can provide 1,800W of power. ( Volts x Amps = Watts ) This is the maximum amount of power this outlet can provide, no more. Also, this is assuming nothing else is drawing power off the circuit this outlet is on. If you try to pull 1800W from an outlet and plug anything else into this circuit, the breaker will blow.Your dryer is designed to run off a 30A 240V circuit. Let's say, for argument, it draws 24A at 240V. This means your appliance requires 5,760W of power to run correctly. This is 3.2 times the absolute maximum amount of power your 120V outlet can provide. There is no way you can run this appliance off this outlet. You have a larger problem here than the voltage difference.You can't, you need both a and b phases. You need to install an 240v receptacle.And don't upgrade to 240V by using the same wires!! Some complete idiots will try this and burn the neighborhood down.
It depends on the welder. If it doesn't need 120V you can just put a wire nut on the neutral and wire a 240V plug. If it needs 120/240V you need the 4 prong plug. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.If you do this work yourself, always turn off the powerat the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work ANDalways use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
First off you must make sure that your generator has overcurrent protect. This comes from article 445 in the NEC. Then size your wires accordingly. Then hook up your 2 hots, neutral, and ground, making sure you use wire that is listed for a wet location. Your pump will need a disconnect along with overcurrent protection.
This is because furnaces are an enormous electrical load! The electric furnace for my 3 bedroom apartment is on a 60A 240V breaker. That means that for a medium sized apartment the furnace can use up to 14.4kW. Wow! Because the power draw is so high, the heater element runs at 240V instead of 120V. To draw that much power off 120V, the circuit would have to be rated to 120A. That is an enormous circuit, and is possibly enough to blow a main breaker if enough other appliances are on. By doubling the voltage a load you can halve the amount of current it draws. This allows for lighter wire, smaller control hardware, and is "healthier" for the house's electrical system.
for USA, Canada and countries using similar 60Hz mains suppliesI'm not sure if the National Electrical Code is okay with it, but it is possible. Make sure you have a 20 Amp Double Pole breaker in the panel. Then, at the 240V outlet: You may need more room to accomodate all the wiring, so get a box extension, or if possible, upgrade to a larger box or use a junction box before the 240V outlet. Okay, Take the incoming neutral wire and connect it to the 2 120V circuits and to the 240V outlet. Connect the incoming red hot wire to a black 120V hot wire. Connect the 240V Black hot wire to the other 120V's hot wire. Connect all the ground wires together. Make sure that the box is grounded as well. Here's a simple formula for calculating the current you can use. Remember that the 120V circuits take current from one leg or the other, while the 240V Circuit takes from both. Since you have 2 120V 20A circuits, multiply the amps of the equipment you can use by 1. Now, multiply the 240V equipment's amps by 2. Add the values together. The value should be less than 32, and definitely not higher than 40. I recommend installing a 120/240V twistlok plug in the box. Then you can plug whatever you want into it. I made a nice distribution panel with 15A breakers for when I want 120V, and 240 can plug in directly. ( I use this method to power my Christmas lights. 2kW. :P)IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.If you do this work yourself, always turn off the powerat the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicator to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.If there are only 3 wires entering the box, you can't legally do it. You can not use the same wire for a neutral and a protective ground. The 3 wires are the two hot phases and the protective ground.If there are 4 wires in the box, or if metal conduit provides the protective ground in addition to 3 wires, you can do it, provided the breaker is a double pole breaker. The white wire is the neutral, the bare one is the protective ground
you do NOT put two 110v breakers in. you put 1 two pole breaker in. the panel is designed to give you 220v off one side OR the other side if you use a 2 pole breaker on one side or the other side. If you look at both 120V lines on an oscilloscope you will notice that they are both 120V to the neutral, but they are 180 degrees out of phase. This means that when one hot is at +120V the other is at -120V. So between the two you have 240V. If you put your meter across both hots you should see 240V. If you do not see 240V across both hots you (or an unlicenced electrician) has wired the outlet without using a proper 220V breaker. You do not see 240V because the hots are in phase, to the voltage differential is 0V, not 240V. 220V breakers cannot do this, unless forcebly installed in the wrong type panel. More than likely someone tried to wire it with 110V breakers.
If I understand your question, Can you run a 110 appliance off of a 220 volt outlet? You could by only using one leg of the 220. You may also consider changing the outlet. Put in a regular 110 outlet and capping off one leg of the 220 in the wall box. You still have a neutral and a ground to work with. I read this as the questioner doesn't want to modify the outlet. Check the voltage ratings on the device. Many electronic devices nowadays can havdle 120V or 240V as it is cheaper to manufacture one powersupply and sell it everywhere. If your device is rated for 240V, you can put a 240V plug on it. If it only says 120V, no dice. 240V will burn it up.
First off, this is bad practice and it doesn't meet code. Secondly, you don't have all the wires for a modern 120V connection. You have 3 wires coming into this circuit. Two are known to be hot. The third may be neutral or may be ground, depending on the outlet or wiring. If it is neutral (white wire) you can get 120V betwen this wire and either hot. Problem is you don't have ground. You can get away with a two prong plug and it may be fine, but you have to judge that depending on what you are powering. If the third wire is ground, sorry. Ground is a dedicated safety line and should carry current only in fault conditions. Don't use it as your neutral.Also, if you do install this device, you need to take the overcurrent device into account. You want the weakest link in you chain of wiring devices to be the circuit breaker, and nothing else. So if you want to put a 15A outlet on a 50A circuit, you will need some sort of 15A overcurrent device in there. Either derate the circuit or add a breaker to your pigtail, if necessairy. (Also, if you derate you can drop the circuit to 120V and this whole discussion becomes moot.)As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
If by 'cable wire' you mean Coax cable for the TV, or Internet, then the answer is no. The power/voltages in the cable are way to low to produce a spark which is usually what triggers flame. If by 'cable wire' you mean a cable carrying an electrical service such as 120V or 240V, then, if the cable is damaged by an accidental or deliberate cut which causes a short circuit from a hot phase wire or wires to other wires in the cable - such as to other hot phase wires in a 3-phase circuit, a neutral or a ground wire - then the resulting heavy current could result in the cable becoming very hot and could cause it to catch on fire unless there was some overcurrent protection device to prevent that from happening. That is why fuses and/or circuit breakers should always be included in any electrical service wiring to cut off the supply of current before a fire can be caused by such damage.
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