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Asking this type of question usually means you aren't ready to do this yourself.
If you get any detailed "how to do it" answer here, you might attempt to do something you shouldn't be doing, and that may cost someone a shock, a home fire, or their life.
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As I don't know what you are trying to power, be sure to check the frequency requirements (50/60hz) before you start. Most appliances won't mind, but better safe than sorry.
As another poster pointed out
Also, as you are only 3A away from the limit on the circuit you may want to consider running a 40A line to this appliance. Make sure all the wiring can handle it, though, including the wiring in the device.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work
AND
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Assuming a 4-wire connection red to one hot connector, black to other hot connector, (these usually have copper colored screw ), white to neutral (Usually silver screw) and green to ground screw (usually green).
Need to know what the wattage or the amperage is of the appliance. The load amperage is what governs the wire size and the breaker to protect the circuit.
Yes, either way, the power is cut to that appliance.
If the appliance is just to be plugged into a circuit with multiple outlets then you just need to make sure that the sum of currents for all devices on the circuit are less than the rated current. A rule of thumb is total current should be no greater than 80% of the rated current. So you might have a 20 A breaker and several 2.5 A appliances on this circuit. If you have a dedicated circuit for the appliance you would only need to size the breaker for the maximum current being drawn by the appliance. If the appliance contained a motor then there might be a start-up current that might be as high as 15 amps so you would likely go to a 20 amp breaker for a safety margin. As a practical matter a dedicated circuit for an appliance in the 2.5 amp range should have a 15 amp breaker. I always install a 20 amp breaker just for added margin and possible future applications.
The appliance works perfectly. If you did it the other way around (50amps on a 30amp breaker, you would be tripping the breaker. Think of it as a mercury thermometer. The circuit breaker is the maximum temperature and the load on that breaker is the mercury. If the load is lower than the max, everything works beautifully. If the load becomes greater than the maximum rating, then things starting popping.
In North America this size breaker could be used on a welding machine. A range in the home would use a 40 amp two pole breaker.
Need to know what the wattage or the amperage is of the appliance. The load amperage is what governs the wire size and the breaker to protect the circuit.
Yes, either way, the power is cut to that appliance.
Yes.
The number that is on a breaker is the amount of amperage that the breaker can deliver before it trips. This is the same regardless of how many poles the breaker is.
If the appliance is just to be plugged into a circuit with multiple outlets then you just need to make sure that the sum of currents for all devices on the circuit are less than the rated current. A rule of thumb is total current should be no greater than 80% of the rated current. So you might have a 20 A breaker and several 2.5 A appliances on this circuit. If you have a dedicated circuit for the appliance you would only need to size the breaker for the maximum current being drawn by the appliance. If the appliance contained a motor then there might be a start-up current that might be as high as 15 amps so you would likely go to a 20 amp breaker for a safety margin. As a practical matter a dedicated circuit for an appliance in the 2.5 amp range should have a 15 amp breaker. I always install a 20 amp breaker just for added margin and possible future applications.
The appliance works perfectly. If you did it the other way around (50amps on a 30amp breaker, you would be tripping the breaker. Think of it as a mercury thermometer. The circuit breaker is the maximum temperature and the load on that breaker is the mercury. If the load is lower than the max, everything works beautifully. If the load becomes greater than the maximum rating, then things starting popping.
A vacuum breaker is usually installed at the top of a vertically-mounted drain pipe leading to a drain. The water drainage hose from an appliance such as a dishwasher or washing machine should never be plumbed directly into a drain stand pipe without a vacuum breaker. The vacuum breaker prevents contaminated water from the drain being sucked back into the appliance if it has a fault.
In North America this size breaker could be used on a welding machine. A range in the home would use a 40 amp two pole breaker.
Is a load(appliance) that runs at max current for 3 hours or more at a time.
Yes, it will be protected by a circuit breaker or fuse. The normal rating of the circuit breaker or fuse is 25% more than the maximum current expected, or the maximum current allowed for the cable size, whichever is lower.
You may need to call in an electrician, or appliance repairman.See view discussion below.
Usually it blows the circuit-breaker and it might also ruin the appliance.