As far as what tachs will work: buy a tach that has what is called an "inductive" pickup. this is a clip that you put around a spark plug wire, it will give your tach the signal it needs from the engine. the rest of the basic instructions, even though they wont be for your exact car, will be in the package with the tach.
pump housing front top of engine
The tach signal comes out of the pcm. The pcm watches the crankshaft position sensor to calculate engine speed. The crankshaft position sensor is behind the starter.
theirs a green wire by distributer that is for the tach
Remote starters can use the AC signal from the alternator as an alternate signal which is not produced until the engine is running. On most cars if you access the PROPER wire for the tach it almost always is strong enough. Double check your wiring diagrams and make sure you are accessing the correct wire from the coil pak or ignition coils.
green wire on aftermarket tachs are the signal wire i belive
tach signal wire is a blue wire with a black cap that ends on the top of the strut tower near the firewall...done
Tach signal wire is located at the PCM near the connector. Use the manual should there be need for help in locating it.
All of the ones that I have worked on have the tach pickup made into the alternator, believe it or not. There are two different alternators that can go on this engine and they look the same from the outside and use all the same wires. They are delco-remy. I'll get you the part numbers.
Tach is driven by a motor signal, speedo is from the trans the sensor is bad on the transmission
At the dealers during the 80's we often saw this intermittent problem in the service department. The most common cause was the TPS (throttle position sensor). An easy and accurate way for anybody to verify that it is indeed the TPS is to crank the engine while observing the tachometer needle. If the "tach signal" is present then the tach needle will fluctuate slightly off of zero. This simple test proves that the car's ECM (electronic control module) is receiving the "go-ahead-and-start-the-engine " signal. Unfortunately, this signal is required to keep the engine running as well. If there is no tach signal the ECM cannot recognize that the engine is running so it turns off the ignition and fuel injection. If while the engine is stalled you witness the absence of the cranking tach signal you will need to replace the TPS sensor. Be carefull to follow the replacement procedure exactly because these old sensors are adjustable. Better yet have a reputable shop do it.
The instructions will come with the new tach.
pin 48 on the pcm connecter is tach signal connect to your green wire from tach
If you can start the engine when cold, but it sputters and stalls when it's warm, then you most likely have a bad ICM. When you crank the engine, if you have tachometer movement, then the module is good, if there's no tach movement while cranking then the module is bad. The tachometer gets the signal from the module, so if the tach works, then the module is good.
You should be able to use the power side of Injector #1 for the tach signal
There should be a tach output connection on the side of the box somewhere, you just plug your tach pickup into that. If it doesn't work you'll need a MSD tach adapter. I'm unsure of the part numbers but there are 2 different ones, it depends on what you used to wire in your ignition. If you used the white wire there is one and if you used a magnetic pickup ( green and violet wires ) there is another one....MSD-8920. I have a sunpro tach and I had to go out and buy an adapter to make it work...for about 50 bucks.
negative side of the coil
You don't. A tach (tachometer) measures engine RPM (Revolutions per Minute), not mileage.
if it is a hei ignition there is a place on the distributor cap that says tach.
are you talking about a sm. block hei. dist. if so there are 2 spade connectors on the side of the cap , one says tach. The tach signal comes from the negative side of the coil.
If your car has a distributor it is the negative on the coil.
a factory cluster with a tach will work if installed w/o any other work. and aftermarket tach needs the signal wire from the distributor. look for a blue wire comming from the harness to the right of the master cylinder area. also near the hood prop. tap that wire for signal, then run your wires for power, ground, and illumination.
At the dist there should be one to power the dist. & one for tach signal. Unplug one & see if car starts or if tach still works. Can't really remember for sure as its been a while lol. My 1972 tach wire is brown and it has a inline fuse from the factory. Your tach wire will be connected to the negative side of your terminal witch is labeled "tach".
not directly... The tach gets its signal from the crankshaft sensor. the signal is processed by the computer where it determains spark timing, fuel ratio and other things. information is relayed via wires to the back of your insterment pannel, and are converted into readable units on your tach. Same with the odometer, it gets its signal from the computer via speed sensor. being you lost both functions on your pannel, i would suspect a faulty cluster.
Your Tach Signal wire is Gray and Dark Blue (Gray/Dark Blue). Same wire, marked with both colors. This means the wire is GRAY with a dark blue line through it. It is located at the Coil pack on top of valve cover. --- This wire above is a 2 Cylinder Signal. 3.0L Tach Wire is GRAY/RED at Powertrain Control Module (PCM). 3.3L & 3.8L Tach Wire is GRAY/RED, DARK BLUE/TAN And RED/YELLOW at PCM. (Each wire is a 2 cylinder signal.)