All analogue thermometers work because most (not all) solids, liquids and gases expand when heated and contract (up to a point) when cooled. The old Mercury filled ones and the ones with red dyed alcohol expand a liquid up a narrow tube with a vacuum at the top and a scale showing the temperature. The dial type use a spiral of expanding metal which gets longer and moves the needle. Digital thermometers use a junction of two differing metals which generates an electrical current which changes with temperature (this is called the Seebeck effect).
By heating the nut (and avoiding the bolt as much as possible) the metal expands, this increases the size of the hole in the middle, releasing pressure against the bolt and allowing you to turn the nut while hot. Wear heat proof gloves, eye protection and have extinguishing equipment and cold water to hand. The level of heat required is often described as "cherry red" and can cause some types of metal to permanently change their hardness... be very careful if you are working on safety critical things like brakes, replace all affected parts.
You can possibly use a heat gun or propane torch.
The heat of rejection, also known as just heat rejection, is when heat leaves a system. How much heat is lost depends on the system and its functionality.
beacause its heat =P
It will heat you up.It will heat you up.It will heat you up.It will heat you up.
A conductor does not absorb heat, it conducts heat so that the heat is evenly dispersed. It seems like it absorbs heat but it transfers heat to somewhere else.
Keep it soaked with penetrating oil and wait and/or gently apply heat to the base of the distributor.
First I would try penetrating oil then a hammer, then heat and a hammer, then if all else fails use a puller. It will help a lot to loosen the automatic adjuster before you start
You can try spray lube like PB Blaster, but if its badly rusted a torch to heat it up is usually the only thing that works.
Heat will loosen up the locktite.
became sag loosen
PB blaster and a sludge hammer. If that doesnt work, heat it up and sledge hammer.
poorly manufactured, rusted through, too much heat... pick one.
take it to a mechanic Soak it with a good penetrating oil, tap it with a hammer and if that fails apply heat.
Use a Hacksaw to cut the bolt off just under the nut. You will have to use new bolts, washers, and nuts anyway when you reinstall the toilet. Or if you have a small bolt cutter, that will work much easier than the hacksaw.
You can possibly use a heat gun or propane torch.
just heat it up for like a few seconds 5 to 10 seconds
take the main hoes that's is connected to the radiator and the engine and then release the two bults remobe the old thermostat remember how you took it out so you know how to put it back then put heat resistance silicone in the o ring then screw the two bult to the engine and put the hose back in to place take the main hoes that's is connected to the radiator and the engine and then release the two bults remobe the old thermostat remember how you took it out so you know how to put it back then put heat resistance silicone in the o ring then screw the two bult to the engine and put the hose back in to place take the main hoes that's is connected to the radiator and the engine and then release the two bults remobe the old thermostat remember how you took it out so you know how to put it back then put heat resistance silicone in the o ring then screw the two bult to the engine and put the hose back in to place