This kinda depends on where you are located and what kind of grasses you have. Up north, pasture grasses start to grow in April and put out their vegetative leaves before the flowering part or inflorescence shoots up. Grasses at the early stage of growth don't have much nutrient in them, especially when they are at the 3 to 4-leaf stage, plus they are the most sensitive to grazing at this time. Grazing your grasses when they reach about a foot in height is best for cattle that need a higher plane of nutrition, like stockers or lactating cows with calves. You must also graze quickly because grasses, in this stage of vegetation, grows quickly.
As the grass matures, it increases in fibre and decreases in protein and water content. 90% of the growth and energy is put into elongation and flowering out of the "grass head." Normally, with good grazing practices, you should not have your grasses to grow out like this; however in grazing systems where you are grazing native pastures or stockpiling you should allow the grasses to complete their life cycle.
After the grass has flowered and puts into seed, it dies off. Nutrient content tends to decrease after the grass goes into dormancy during the hottest portion of the year. You will find that cool season grasses, as I have referred to above, during the summer, even when grazed so that they are not allowed to fully mature, will decrease in vigour because of the heat. In the south, when the summers are hot and cattle still need to be grazed, warm-season grasses are grazed until autumn. Grazing warm-season grasses during this time tends to give the dormant cool-season grasses a bit of a break, enabling them to store energy to resume a little extra growth during the autumn.
Warm-season grasses start growth during June to July and quickly complete their life cycle by the time September rolls around. Nutrient levels are similar to the peaks and dips of cool-season grasses.
With good grazing practices, cool-season grasses tend to resume growth again, enabling more (but lighter) grazing before the killing frost hits and the snow falls.
Switching over, rotating, moving livestock to a new pasture, etc.
Cattle are easier on a pasture. Usually. However, both need to be managed responsibly in order to maintain a healthy, productive pasture year after year without ever having to resort to spreading synthetic fertilizer, reseeding or even plowing it under to reseed.
i do not know about this ...
Artificial pasture is more or less equivalent to the term "tame pasture" in North America. It is a pasture that contains grasses that are tame, non-native or "soft" over grasses that are native, wild or "hard." The latter is called "natural pasture." Artificial pastures contain grasses that are more vigorous, competitive and tend to have a much higher forage biomass over a growing period than native grasses do, making them ideal for grazing in a controlled system over a nomadic pastoral system typical of natural pastures. Native versus artificial pastures are terms that are used in eastern Europe, parts of Asia and Africa. Please see the related links below for more information.
=What are the positions of the sun over a year???=
With the obvious exception of leap years the number of hours in a year does not change.
www.agric.nsw.gov.au/Hope this helps.
You telll me
A horse pasture should have enough space to graze as well as space to run. One horse is 1.5 AUs, so depending on your locality, pasture quality, time of year, etc., you could pasture one horse per 2 acres or more per month.
No if you put a ligh layer over the pasture then no, this is actually extremly benificial to the grass (for horse manure is great fertilizer).
i dint :)
Summer, Autumn, Winter and spring are the results.